By DWIGHT BARNETT, Scripps Howard News Service

Q: You have written about spalling or flaking bricks and why they're that way.

You said a cap of stone, wood or metal is needed to keep rain and snow out. Would you please explain what kind of cap you're talking about? This is happening to the brick on the north side of my house in Texas.

Q: I have a house built in 1969 with a brick fireplace that we put a gas decorative insert in and changed the decorative fireplace door. There are now large gaps between the masonry work, brick and the door. This is not an insert -- just a decorative log.

Q: A recent news story showed people shoveling snow off their roofs. We came from a warmer climate and I'm not used to a lot of snow. Is this something I should plan on doing this winter? Our house has a steep roof over most of the house and a flat roof on the upper rear.

Q: I'm going to Florida for a couple of months and I want to prepare my house for the winter, and I want to turn off as many utilities as possible to avoid costs and damage. I plan to:

-- Turn off electrical current to the water heater.

-- Turn off the water supply (from the city) and drain lines, and turn off the refrigerator icemaker.

Q: I had a contractor install pop-up gutter drains. They were supposed to be dug 10 feet out. He only did this for one at the back of the house. The other three are only 4 to 5 feet out. I wasn't aware of this and wouldn't have realized this wasn't proper. I am now convinced that this is the reason that the gutters at the front overflow. Am I right?

Q: We installed a new electric hot-water heater. I thought maybe the old one had collected sludge in the bottom and was cutting water pressure to the faucets upstairs. This didn't work. The water pressure is the same as before. We have a 3/4-inch line to the bath and kitchen in the basement, then 1/2-inch lines to faucets.

Q: I can feel cold air coming from the windows on the west side of my home. The windows are wood with a storm glass on the outside. A contractor told me he could replace all the windows and I would save enough money on heating bills to pay for the replacement in no time.

Q: Last year I purchased what was advertised to be an energy-efficient home. The walls are concrete filled foam blocks and the attic has spray foam on the rafters. The energy bills are within reason for this type of home but I am experiencing a water leak on the ceilings near an outside wall. The contractor wants to check the roof as soon as the weather allows.

Q: I inherited a concrete block building that was then converted into a home several years ago. Part of it has a crawlspace and part is on a concrete slab. The crawlspace is always damp, and the furnace ductwork is covered with a fiberglass insulation. A termite contractor recently found mold growth on the wood floors and under the duct's insulation.

Q: Could you please give me some idea as to where I am getting a water leak from my chimney/roof?

I have a three-bedroom ranch home with the chimney rising out of the middle of the home. I recently had the roof replaced down to the wood. (I have had this leak even before the roof was replaced.)