Honey cake reveals magic for Rosh Hashana

"Magical Honey Cake" is one of the delicious recipes in a magical new cookbook. Consider trying this version of the traditional treat for Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year. The holiday starts at sundown on Sept. 29 and ends at nightfall on Oct. 1."The Book of New Israeli Food," by Janna Gur (Schocken, $35), is a big coffee-table volume, rich with gorgeous photographs by Eilon Paz. It beautifully makes the case that Israel now has a distinctive and delicious cuisine.Gur moved to Israel in 1974 from the former Soviet Union, where she was born. She's founder and chief editor of the Israeli food and wine magazine, Al Hashulchan Gastronomic Monthly. While she's edited some 30 cookbooks published by the magazine, this is the first one she's written."I wanted to juxtapose old and new -- traditional falafel next to fancy fish falafel, home cooking and dishes by leading chefs, Sephardi and Ashkenazi," she writes in an e-mail from Tel Aviv. "I also very much wanted to dispel preconceptions many people have about Israel, and food is a very good place to start -- it shows how heterogeneous, sophisticated and unique Israeli society really is."There are short chapters on Israeli food pillars such as bread, cheese, wine, "The Israeli Breakfast" and "Olive Oil -- The Soul of the Mediterranean." Several chapters are devoted to holidays.The Al Hashulchan staff's favorite honey cake is a classic from an amateur cook and one of the publication's veteran readers, Dalia Zarchiya.Gur recommends letting the cake "mature" for seven days before serving it.However, "you can eat the cake a day after you bake it," Gur says, "but it's worth waiting, as it actually gets juicier. I have no idea why, but it just does. By the way, it keeps for a few weeks (not refrigerated)."I'm not Jewish, but this new cookbook made me want to try this recipe and dozens of others. Some of Gur's personal favorites include gefilte fish ("I used the recipe from the book to make my first-ever gefilte and it turned out just right"), tahini cookies, beetroot and pomegranate salad and hummus.I'm also enjoying learning about Israeli specialties such as shakshuka, originally a Libyan working-person's dish based on three ingredients: tomatoes, hot sauce and eggs. Israeli army soldiers customize it with kernel corn and baked beans, but it can be flavored and extended with sausages or other fare. As Gur writes, "Shakshuka is one of those dishes you can make even when your refrigerator appears to be empty."Thanks to its Mediterranean location and climate, Israeli's food scene is bountiful. "Don't read this on an empty stomach," Gur warned me in sending a snapshot of a seaside restaurant in Tel Aviv at the end of summer.Among her many recommendations: "Sparkling wine to start you off (some lovely bubblies by local wineries were released recently). Oven-fresh focaccia with green olive tapenade. A ceviche or fish tartare with a local twist (such as tahini), burnt eggplant with yogurt and silan (date honey), tomato salad with cilantro and pine nuts."And then, whole grilled fish stuffed with herbs or maybe preserved lemons served with a bowl of freshly chopped salad or lamb kebabs served with warm couscous and roast vegetable salads. Fresh figs with mascarpone or halva ice cream with grilled peaches for dessert."What she and the book really make me want to do is to go on holiday to Israel -- to eat and eat and eat.MAGICAL HONEY CAKEThe recipe comes from Janna Gur's "Book of New Israeli Food: A Culinary Journey" (Schocken, $35). "Pay attention," she writes. "The cake should 'mature' for seven days before serving." The recipe calls for three loaf pans.6 cups plus 3 tablespoons flour1-1/2 cups sugar2 heaping teaspoons cinnamon1-1/2 cups honey1 cup vegetable oil4 eggs2 tablespoons instant coffee2 level teaspoons baking soda1/3 cup raisins1/2 cup walnuts, choppedPreheat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease and flour three 9-by-5-inch loaf pans.Combine flour, sugar and cinnamon in a bowl. Add the honey, oil and eggs; beat into a smooth batter with a whisk or a mixer.Dissolve the instant coffee in 1 cup of boiling water. Stir baking soda and then coffee into the batter. Gently fold in raisins and walnuts.Pour batter into greased pans. Bake for 45 minutes or until the top of the cake is dark brown and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, with few crumbs adhering.Let loaves cool completely. Remove from pans. Wrap with aluminum foil and place in a cool, dry place (not in the refrigerator) to mature for seven days.Variation: If you don't like the taste of coffee in your honey cake, replace it with 1 cup of strong dark tea.MOROCCAN-STYLE HOT FISHThis recipe comes from Guy Peretz of Gazpacho at the Holiday Inn in Ashkelon, Israel. Chunks of grouper or other saltwater fish are cooked casserole-style with hot peppers and garlic. "No holiday dinner in a Jewish Moroccan household is complete without it," Gur writes. I quartered the recipe, using humble frozen cod, and found it to be pretty nice for a weeknight supper, too.Seasoning mix:8 tablespoons paprika (can use half regular and half smoked paprika)Salt, to taste1 cup olive oilFor the fish:4 hot red peppers, cut into strips2 red bell peppers, cut into strips (discard core and seeds)1 cup fresh parsley, coarsely chopped1 cup fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped3 pounds grouper or other saltwater fish, cut in eight 6-ounce pieces20 cloves garlic, peeled3 to 4 cups of waterCombine seasoning ingredients in mixing bowl and mix until blended.Line a wide saucepan with the peppers and herbs.Dip fish chunks in seasoning mix and arrange in the saucepan. Add garlic and water to remaining seasoning mix, stir to combine and pour over the fish.Cook 10 to 15 minutes (depending on size of the fish chunks) over high heat, bringing it to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and continue cooking another 15 minutes until the sauce thickens. Serves 8.(E-mail Bob Batz Jr. at bbatz(at)post-gazette.com.)(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, www.scrippsnews.com.)