A look at cassia

Q: I took a cooking class. The chef had this incredible cinnamon that didn't smell like any cinnamon I had ever smelled before. It was deeply fragrant, peppery, rich beyond belief. Do you know what kind that could have been? -- Kim Hayes, Everett, Wash.A: It sounds like what your chef had was cassia. Cassia is similar to cinnamon, but stronger-flavored and spicier, and usually used in savory dishes. Cinnamon is more delicate and generally subtler-flavored and better for desserts.You'll usually see cassia in "bark" form; it's tougher than cinnamon and won't roll up into curls like cinnamon does. Since it is so tough, it's best used for long-simmered stews and curries, where it'll eventually mellow out -- though you'll still want to remove it before serving a dish.(For more information, visit www.foodnetwork.com or write Ask Food Network c/o Viewer Services Culinary Department, Scripps Networks, PO Box 50970, Knoxville, TN 37950.)