Pineapple sage lends fruity scent to sweet and savory

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Dear Lynne: This harvest, we have a bumper crop of pineapple sage. How could we use it creatively? -- Marge in Wilmington, N.C.Dear Marge: For years, I grew this herb just for the pleasure of brushing up against it in the garden. As you know, it smells amazingly like pineapple and barely like sage. Spreading leaves in a shallow basket and letting them dry gives you a fresh, room-filling scent all winter.In cooking, many recipes calling for fresh basil could take pineapple sage instead. Just remember that the sage leaves have a coarser texture.The herb is best, though, with soft, gentle flavors and foods that have an underlying sweetness or creaminess. For instance, you could infuse a baked custard with it by lining individual ramekins with the leaves before putting them in the oven.The same kind of flavoring could be done with sugar by burying leaves in the sugar canister. Then anything you do with the sugar will carry traces of the herb.Or make a pineapple-sage sugar syrup for lemonade, limeade or iced tea by melting equal parts of sugar and water in a saucepan, then steeping a handful of pineapple sage in it for an hour or so. Add rum and extra lime and you've got a pineapple-sage cooler.Warm the crushed leaves in a little butter that's barely melted and toss the mix with steamed little redskin potatoes. Or pour that butter over grilled seafood, especially salmon and scallops. Braise carrots with orange zest, olive oil, a little onion and lots of pineapple sage. The same flavorings set off peas nicely, and chicken breast.Speaking of chicken: Whenever you're in doubt about what to do with a new herb, stuff it under the skin of a chicken and then roast. If you have the time, let the seasoned chicken sit overnight in the refrigerator before cooking so that fruity green aroma permeates the whole bird.PINEAPPLE SAGE/BASIL ROAST CHICKEN SUPPER IN A PANServes 3 to 4.If you can't find pineapple sage, use fresh basil. If possible, season the chicken one day, refrigerate it overnight and cook it the next day. Roasting carrots and potatoes with the chicken gives you a one-pan supper with the possibility of leftovers that reheat beautifully.Seasoning:3-1/2- to 4-pound chicken (organic, if possible)2 cloves garlic1/2 tightly packed cup fresh pineapple-sage or basil leaves1/2 cup unsweetened pineapple juiceShredded zest of half a large lemon4 tablespoons unsalted butter1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepperRoasting:2 large onions, sliced into thick rings2 to 3 large carrots sliced 1/2-inch thick10 fingerling potatoes, halved1 to 2 teaspoons kosher or other coarse salt3 to 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oilButterfly the chicken by turning it breast down on a cutting board and cutting down one side of the backbone. Spread out the bird, turn it over and press down hard on the breastbone. It should crack and flatten out a little.In a food processor or with a mortar and pestle, work together the garlic, herbs, pineapple juice, lemon zest, butter and pepper. Then, using a teaspoon, stuff half the mixture under the skin of the breast and thighs. Rub the rest over both sides of the bird. Set it in a dish, lightly cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.To cook, preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a large, shallow roasting pan with foil, then spread the onion rings over the pan. Season them with a little salt. Spread the chicken breast up over the onions. Add the vegetables. Sprinkle everything with salt and a little olive oil. Set the chicken in the oven and turn down the heat to 375.Roast, basting often with the pan juices, about 70 minutes (after 30 minutes, turn it over, roast 30 minutes and turn back to finish browning), or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thigh reads 170. If necessary, brown under the broiler for a few moments.To serve, let the chicken rest at room temperature for 10 minutes, then cut as you wish. Arrange on a platter with the vegetables. Drizzle the platter with pan juices and garnish with more pineapple-sage leaves.(Lynne Rossetto Kasper hosts "The Splendid Table," American Public Media's national food show, and is co-author of "The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper: Recipes, Stories and Opinions." Ask questions and find Lynne, recipes and station listings at splendidtable.org or 800-537-5252.)(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, http://www.scrippsnews.com)