What makes an heirloom tomato so special

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Dear Lynne, I'd like to know where to find more information on heirloom tomatoes, like how each kind tastes, what's the difference between an heirloom and a normal tomato, their history, and maybe which ones are worth the money? Oh, and could you share a recipe maybe that shows them off? -- Bobbi from ChicagoDear Bobbi: Two heirloom authorities, Craig LeHoullier and Carolyn Male (who we spoke to when the term first surfaced years ago), divide heirlooms into four categories. They are quoted on www.tomatofest.com site:1. Commercial Heirlooms: Open-pollinated varieties introduced before 1940, or tomato varieties more than 50 years in circulation.2. Family Heirlooms: Seeds that have been passed down for several generations through a family.3. Created Heirlooms: Crossing two known parents (either two heirlooms or an heirloom and a hybrid) and dehybridizing the resulting seeds for how ever many years/generations it takes to eliminate the undesirable characteristics and stabilize the desired characteristics, perhaps as many as 8 years or more.4. Mystery Heirlooms: Varieties that are a product of natural cross-pollination of other heirloom varieties.They also point out that all heirloom varieties are open-pollinated but not all open-pollinated varieties are heirlooms. Open pollinated means you can plant the tomato's seeds next year and get the same tomato. Hybrid tomato seeds will not reproduce the same tomato. To grow that hybrid tomato you must buy and plant new hybrid seed each year. As to tastes, they vary from the yellows and orange types which are generally low in acid and quite sweet (too much so for my taste), to some of the stripped kinds that are like sweet/tart candy, to the reds and pinks which taste like old fashioned tomatoes, that is lush, round and full to delicately decadent, to the over the top plushness of the blacks which remind me of rich roast beef and red wine. Remember though, just because it's an heirloom doesn't automatically mean it has great flavor, but you stand a better chance of it with these babies. My leanings of the moment are toward the dark purplish ones with green around their core. Called, "black tomatoes," many of the ones I end up liking originate in Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union. Of course all of this is a game of chance because what tastes good here in my area might be pap where you live. Ask for samples before buying.A book that will tell all, including well-researched history is Amy Goldman's "The Heirloom Tomato: From Garden to Table" by Amy Goldman (Bloomsbury, 2008, $35). Amy has been working with heirlooms much of her life. The book embraces the gardener and the cook with taste descriptions, recipes and growing information. But for a recipe to use right now, here is a good way to show off the final harvests of these gems.HEIRLOOM TOMATOES WITH FRESH CHEESE AND PINE NUTSServes 4 as a main dish, or 6 as a first course.Arrange the cut tomatoes up to an hour ahead, but sprinkle them with the rest of the ingredients just before serving. A coarse whole grain bread is good with this, and do consider piling the tomatoes and trimmings on slices for impromptu open-faced sandwiches.4 to 6 different ripe heirloom tomatoes (such as a black, an orange, a pink, a red, a striped variety and a collection of little ones)Coarse salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste3/4 pound fresh cow, sheep or goat cheese (literally anything that tastes fresh and good)1 tablespoon fine minced red onion6 each of fresh basil and mint leaves, torn1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice, or to taste4 to 6 tablespoons good tasting extra-virgin olive oil1/3 cup toasted pine nuts, or salted shelled pistachios1. Core the tomatoes and slice them about 1/2 inch thick from top to bottom instead of crosswise. This way you get the full range of flavors in each slice of the parts that got the most sun and ones that didn't. Arrange each type in clusters on a large platter. Halve the small tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper.2. Dollop small pieces or scoops of the cheese over the fruit.3. Sprinkle the tomatoes with all of the remaining ingredients, and taste for seasoning. Serve right away. (Lynne Rossetto Kasper hosts "The Splendid Table," American Public Media's national food show, and is co-author of "The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper: Recipes, Stories and Opinions." Ask questions and find Lynne, recipes and station listings at splendidtable.org, or 800-537-5252.)