It's one sandwich that bursts with many contrasting flavors.The Vietnamese-style hero sandwich -- called banh mi -- is a melding of a crusty baguette, seasoned meats, crisp Asian vegetables and cooling herbs. It's been called "French and Asian fusion at its best" and even "cheesesteak sandwich meets spring rolls."Whatever the moniker, this submarinelike sandwich is strangely addictive, and surprisingly economical. Most cost between $2 and $2.50, perfect for a quick lunch or a picnic in the park.Banh mi -- which means "bread" -- is Vietnam's version of "fast food," sold from street carts and eaten on the way to work or school, says Brenda Xa, owner of the Tay-Do Supermarket in West Valley City, Utah. The Asian market sells several different varieties of banh mi in its quick-serve deli."It's easy to eat anytime," said Xa, who sells about 500 of these sandwiches each week.Food historians say this hearty meal dates back to the 19th century, when French colonists moved into Vietnam -- once called French Indochina -- introducing a new language, culture and foods. Not surprisingly, the Vietnamese people were drawn to the soft, crusty French bread. They likely filled it with meats, seasoned with soy sauce, said Xa. Later they added pickled vegetables and hot chiles.Today, the meat used to fill banh mi can vary. Pork -- in several different incarnations -- is the most common offering. There is banh mi thit nuong, marinated and grilled pork; banh mi bi, shredded pork with skin and seasonings; banh mi xa xiu, barbecue pork; and banh mi xiu mai, juicy pork.Many menus also offer banh mi ga, marinated and shredded chicken; banh mi jambon, ham; and banh mi bi chay, a vegetarian option with tofu. And any Vietnamese deli with any chops will have banh mi dac biet, a combination of several meats.Traditionally, the baguette is spread with liver pate and mayonnaise, two other French contributions. But many businesses have created their own special house mayonnaise or special patelike sauces to distinguish themselves from competitors.Garnishes are what elevate this hearty Vietnamese meal above a typical American sandwich. Thin matchsticks of pickled carrots and daikon (a large, sweet Asian radish) add tangy flavors and jalapenos create heat, while sliced cucumbers and fresh sprigs of cilantro bring a cooling effect.Thao Ly, owner of Cafe Thao Mi Go-Go in Taylorsville, Utah, remembers being a young girl in Vietnam and buying banh mi at a cart across from her school every day for lunch.When she came to America, her mother-in-law taught her how to make this childhood favorite. Today, her restaurant offers 11 varieties of banh mi along with traditional Vietnamese vermicelli and rice dishes."People like it," she said, "because the price is reasonable and with all the vegetables it's refreshing and not heavy."BANH MISlaw:1/2 cup water1/4 cup sugar1/4 cup distilled white vinegar1/2 cup julienned carrot1/2 cup julienned daikon radishKosher saltSeasoned pork:1 teaspoon vegetable oil1 tablespoon finely chopped onion6 ounces ground pork1 tablespoon roast pork seasoning mix, available in Asian marketsPinch garlic powderPinch ground black pepperSandwiches:4 (10-inch) baguettesMayonnaise, as needed8 thin slices Vietnamese-style pork roll (cha lua), or bologna8 slices Vietnamese-style salami, or ham or turkey4 teaspoons soy sauce1/2 cup fresh cilantro sprigs1/4 medium English cucumber, cut lengthwise into 4 slicesFreshly ground black pepperSliced jalapenos or Asian-style chili oil, to taste, optionalIn a small saucepan, combine the water, sugar and vinegar for the slaw and bring to a boil. Transfer vinegar mixture to a bowl and cool. Add carrot and daikon, mix well. Season with salt. Marinate 30 minutes or store in the refrigerator overnight.Meanwhile, for the seasoned pork, heat oil in small nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Add onion and cook, stirring, until soft. Add pork, seasoning, garlic and pepper and cook, stirring, until just cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside covered with foil to keep warm.Heat oven to 400 degrees. Slice baguettes open lengthwise, and slather the insides with mayonnaise. Arrange the baguettes on a baking sheet and bake until hot and crusty, about 5 minutes. Remove baguettes from the oven and immediately fill each with some of the seasoned pork.On each sandwich, arrange 2 slices of the pork roll and salami, 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 1/2 tablespoon cilantro, 1 slice cucumber, ground pepper and jalapenos or chili oil, if using.Serve immediately. Makes 4 sandwiches.-- www.foodnetwork.com(Kathy Stephenson can be contacted at kathys(at)sltrib.com. For more stories, visit scrippsnews.com.)


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