Olympic mein course: A primer on Chinese noodles

All eyes are on China these days, as Beijing hosts the Summer Olympics.For those of us watching the competition from the couch, celebrating Asian culture can be as simple as preparing a bowl of noodles.From everyday homes to street carts and restaurants, noodles are a mainstay of Chinese cuisine. Collectively known as mein, noodles are eaten hot, cold, boiled and stir-fried. They are stirred into soups and topped with meat and vegetables.But Chinese noodles also can be confusing. There are dozens of different kinds depending on the region, explains Doris Yee Greenleigh, a cook in Ogden, Utah. They also can be almost identical to noodles made in Japan, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam."But next to the Italians, the Chinese probably eat the most noodles," said Greenleigh, whose father, Wing Yee, owned Ogden's Canton Low Chinese Restaurant.Noodles can be made from a number of different ingredients and can come in many shapes and sizes, Greenleigh says. They often can be used for one another in recipes. And, because a noodle is a noodle no matter where you live, Italian pasta can be a worthy substitute.Here are four common categories of Chinese noodles found in some U.S. markets:-- Bean-thread noodles: A thin, clear noodle made from mung-bean starch. Sometimes called cellophane noodles, vermicelli and sai fun. Sold dry, they should be soaked in hot water to soften before stir-frying. Add dry to soups.-- Egg noodles: These yellow noodles are made with wheat flour and eggs, similar to Italian pasta. They can be cut wide or thin and are available in dried and fresh/frozen form. They're the noodles used in chow mein and lo mein. Parboil before using in soups or stir-frying.-- Rice noodles: Another broad term for noodles made with rice, rice flour or rice powder. There are soft, wet noodles that come in sheets or strips. These are delicate and cook quickly. There also are thin, dry noodles, sometimes called rice vermicelli, mee fun or rice stick noodles. When deep-fried, these noodles explode into airy, crunchy strands. They also can be soaked in water before adding to soups or stir-fries.-- Wheat noodles: Long, thin noodles, whiter than egg noodles, they look similar to spaghetti. They are available fresh and dried. The traditional "long life" noodles eaten for Chinese birthdays are wheat noodles.What's the difference between chow mein and lo mein?Both of these traditional Chinese dishes use a yellow-colored egg noodle, or mein.For chow, which translates to "fry," the vegetables and meat are stir-fried and then served over the thin egg noodles. With lo, or "mix," the slightly thicker mung bean noodles are mixed in the wok with the other ingredients, allowing the noodles to pick up more of the sauce flavor.For more information, see "The Cuisines of Asia," by Jennifer Brennan; "The Shun Lee Cookbook," by Michael Tong; and "The Food Lover's Companion," by Sharon Tyler Herbst.COLD SESAME NOODLES8 ounces dried Chinese egg noodles or linguine2 heaping tablespoons Chinese sesame paste or peanut butter1 green onion, white part only, trimmed and minced2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced1 tablespoon soy sauce1 tablespoon Chinese black or balsamic vinegar1 teaspoon rice wine or dry sherry1 teaspoon hot bean paste1 teaspoon hot chili oil1 teaspoon sugar1/2 of one cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into thin, 2-inch-long strips3/4 cup bean sproutsBring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add noodles and cook until tender, 3 to 8 minutes, depending on type.Meanwhile, mix the sesame paste with 2 tablespoons hot water in a serving bowl. Add green onion, garlic, soy sauce, vinegar, rice wine, hot bean paste, hot chili oil and sugar. Whisk until smooth.Drain noodles and rinse under cold running water until cold. Drain thoroughly. Add noodles to the bowl and mix with sauce. Garnish with cucumber and bean sprouts. Serve immediately.Makes 4 servings.-- "The Shun Lee Cookbook: Recipes from A Chinese Restaurant Dynasty"EASY CHAR SHU PORK NOODLESDoris Yee Greenleigh's father, Wing Yee, marinated and roasted his own char shu, or barbecued pork, at his restaurant, the Canton Low. After boning the pork loin, he used the bones to make the meat stock, which simmered for hours. For this quick, easy version of char shu pork noodles, use canned low-sodium chicken broth and char shu purchased from a Chinese market or deli.8 ounces dried wheat noodles1/2 cup bean sprouts1/2 pound barbecued pork (char shu), sliced1 hard-cooked egg, cut in half lengthwise2 cans (14.5-ounces each) low-sodium chicken broth2 teaspoons rice wineSoy sauce, for garnishSesame oil, to taste1 stalk green onion, finely chopped, for garnishCook the dried wheat noodles in boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes. Drain, rinse and place in 2 bowls.Heat a wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Stir-fry the bean sprouts for 1 minute. Remove from heat.Top each bowl of noodles with slices of char shu, bean sprouts and half of the hard-cooked egg.Bring the chicken broth to a boil. Add the rice wine. Simmer for 5 minutes.Pour the hot broth over the char shu and noodles. Season with soy sauce and sesame oil. Garnish with chopped green onions.Makes 2 servings.-- Doris Yee Greenleigh(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, www.scrippsnews.com.)