There's a world of recipes using oregano

Oregano is an herb found in Italian, Greek and Mexican cuisines, but it's a relatively recent flavor for the American palate. It is said to have been brought to the United States when soldiers came home from World War II.They brought the herb and their appetite for dishes flavored with oregano. Now it is nearly synonymous with pizza and Italian pasta sauces, and is frequently combined with basil and tomato.Mediterranean oregano is milder than the Mexican variety, which is used in spicy dishes, according to "The Food Lover's Companion." The stronger Mexican variety usually is found dried in Latin markets.Beyond its use as a pizza herb or a Mexican spice, there's a world of dishes that use oregano, whether it is fresh or dried.Chef Laurent Tourondel, who is French-born and -trained, includes Oregano-Breaded Tomatoes in his cookbook, "Bistro Laurent Tourondel" (Wiley, $34.95). The dish goes well with leg of lamb, veal porterhouse and ribeye or strip steaks. The cookbook also includes a recipe for Creamy Oregano Dressing using dried oregano.From the National Cattlemen's Beef Association comes the recipe for Beef, Sweet Pepper and Mushroom Kabobs seasoned with oregano, olive oil, garlic and black pepper. It is served with a Cucumber Sauce laced with feta cheese.Oregano is a member of the marjoram family and the variety that grows in Greece is aromatic and richly flavorful. It is used in meat and vegetable stews and casseroles, especially those with tomato sauce and eggplant and is the herb for an omelet.Cookbook author Rick Bayless sets the record straight about Mexican oregano in "Mexican Everyday" (Norton, $29.95). The oregano-scented member of the large New World verbena family is sold in Mexican markets in the whole-leaf and dried forms. Read the fine print on the bottles to discover whether the contents are Mexican or Mediterranean oregano.In Diana Kennedy's "The Art of Mexican Cooking" (Potter, $30), which was first published in 1989 and is now back in print, there are several soup recipes using Mexican oregano, including Meatball Soup (Sopa de Albondigas) and Sopa Tarasca, which resembles tortilla soup. She also uses oregano for Barbacoa de Pollo or pit-barbecued chicken.That didn't stop me from using dried oregano in Cuban Black Bean Stew from Lynne Rossetto Kasper's latest book, "The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper," written with her producer, Sally Swift (Clarkson Potter, $35). The most interesting thing about this recipe was the addition of sherry vinegar instead of lime juice at the end. It's an ingredient used in other Cuban recipes. (Kasper's TABLE column moves as part of Scripps Howard News Service's weekly food package.)In addition, we tested Huevos Rancheros from "Cooking Light Complete Cookbook" (Oxmoor House, $34.95), calling for dried oregano (it made no distinction between Mediterranean or Mexican).Indeed, there's a world of recipes using oregano.BEEF, SWEET PEPPER AND MUSHROOM KABOBS1 pound well-trimmed boneless beef top sirloin or beef tenderloin steaks, cut 1-inch thick8 ounces medium mushrooms2 medium red, yellow or green bell peppers, cut into 1-inch piecesSaltFor the Cucumber sauce:1/2 cup plain yogurt1/3 cup finely chopped seeded cucumber2 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese1 clove minced garlic1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper18 teaspoon saltFor the Seasoning:2 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves, crushed2 cloves garlic, minced1/2 teaspoon ground black pepperCut beefsteak into 1-1/4-inch pieces. Combine seasoning ingredients in large bowl. Add beef, mushrooms and bell peppers; toss to coat. Alternately thread beef and vegetable pieces evenly onto eight 12-inch metal skewers, leaving a small space between pieces.Place kabobs on rack in broiler pan so surface of beef is 3 to 4 inches from heat. Broil 9 to 12 minutes for medium rare to medium doneness, turning once. Season kabobs with salt as desired.Meanwhile, prepare Cucumber Sauce by combining ingredients in a small bowl. Serve kabobs with sauce.Yield: 4 servings-- National Cattlemen's Beef AssociationOREGANO-BREADED TOMATOES1 cup panko breadcrumbs5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil3 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped2 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped1 tablespoon finely chopped garlicFine sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste6 large vine-ripened tomatoes, halved lengthwisePreheat oven to 350 degrees. Oil a small baking pan.Make the stuffing: In a bowl, stir together the breadcrumbs, oil, parsley, oregano, garlic, salt, and pepper.Fill the tomatoes. Sprinkle each tomato half with salt and pepper and place them in a pan, cut-side up. Top with the breadcrumb mixture.Bake the tomatoes 30 minutes or until the crumbs are golden brown. Serve hot.Yield: 6 servings-- "Bistro Laurent Tourondel"HUEVOS RANCHEROS4 8-inch corn tortillas2 teaspoons vegetable oil1 cup chopped onion1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper3 garlic cloves, minced1/4 cup canned chopped green chiles2 teaspoons chile powder, preferably New Mexico chile powder1 teaspoon ground cumin1 teaspoon dried oregano1/4 teaspoon hot sauce1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes, undrained4 large eggs1/4 cup commercial salsa1/4 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese2 teaspoons chipped fresh cilantroPreheat oven to 350 degrees. Coat tortillas with cooking spray; place on a baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes or until crisp.Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Coat pan with 1 teaspoon oil. Add onion, bell pepper and garlic and saute 3 minutes. Add green chiles and next 5 ingredients. Bring to a boil; cook 3 minutes or until thick.Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Coat pan with 1 teaspoon oil. Add eggs to pan, cook 3 minutes or until done. Place 1 tortilla on each of 4 plates. Top each tortilla with tomato mixture and egg. Spoon salsa over each serving, sprinkle with cheese and cilantro.Yield: 4 servings-- Adapted from "Cooking Light Complete Cookbook"CUBAN BLACK BEAN STEW1 or 2 meaty smoked ham hocks (about 1-1/2 pounds)Extra-virgin olive oil3 whole cloves2 medium to large onions, chopped into 1/2-inch dice1 small to medium green bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch pieces1 small to medium red bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch pieces2 teaspoons kosher salt2 14-ounce cans chicken or vegetable broth6 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped3 bay leaves, broken2 teaspoons ground cumin1-1/2 teaspoons dried oregano3/4 to 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper3 generous tablespoons tomato paste3 15-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsed3 limes halved or about 1/3 cup sherry, wine or cider vinegarTrim meat away from ham-hock bone, cutting it into small pieces. Leave some on the bone. Film the bottom of a 10-quart stockpot with olive oil and heat over medium-high heat. Stir in the meat, bone, cloves, onions, bell peppers, and salt.Saute 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until the vegetables are sizzling and there's a brown glaze on the bottom of the pan (the vegetables need not brown, and take care not to let the glaze blacken).Add a little broth along with the garlic, bay leaves, cumin, oregano, black pepper and tomato paste. With a wooden spatula, scrape up the glaze as you simmer the mix on medium-high heat for 3 minutes. Then add the beans and the remaining broth. Adjust the heat so the soup bubbles gently. Cover the pot tightly and cook 20 minutes.Stir in the juice from the limes or 1/3 cup of vinegar. Taste the soup for seasoning. Adjust salt, pepper and lime juice or vinegar to taste.Ladle into bowls, topping each with a tablespoon of chopped onion. In Cuban style, you could ladle the stew over rice.Yield: 4 to 6 servings-- "The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper"(Contact Kathie Smith at food(at)theblade.com.)(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, www.scrippsnews.com.)

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