A Moroccan Spice and Herb Soup

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Dear Lynne: We went to our first Moroccan restaurant and had a soup with tomatoes, herbs and spices that was like none I'd ever eaten. (OK, so I don't do exotic, but this soup was different.) I know the name began with an "H," and that it had chickpeas in it, but that is all. We drank it from small bowls -- no spoons. Do you know what this is and how it's made? -- Duncan from AtlantaDear Duncan: You most likely had Harira, a soup that's uncommonly good, but not uncommon in Morocco, and one I love to make. This is my rendition of Harira, created from several Moroccan recipes for the soup. Like with so many traditional foods, everyone has his or her own version.MOROCCAN SPICE AND HERB SOUP (HARIRA)Serves 8 and can be done up to 4 days in advance.So fragrant with lemon, coriander, paprika and cinnamon, Harira is the soup that breaks the Ramadan fast for Muslims. It is often sipped at the start of Moroccan meals. Lamb is usually cooked into it, but when it isn't to be had, you could make Harira with simply broth as in this recipe.Although it is a step away from Moroccan tradition, I like to serve this soup with little bowls of chopped raw onion and a selection of spices (Aleppo chile or other hot, fruity chile, allspice, coarsely ground fennel seed and toasted cumin seed that has been ground). Each diner seasons the soup to taste.If you can get the Moroccan bread made with whole-wheat flour and anise seed, it is the ideal partner for the soup. Otherwise, Naan bread or pita is fine.3 tablespoons good-tasting extra-virgin olive oil1 large onion, finely chopped1/2 tightly packed cup chopped Italian parsley1/2 tightly packed cup chopped fresh corianderSalt1-1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper5 large garlic cloves, minced1-1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, minced1 teaspoon turmeric3/4 teaspoon cinnamon1 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained1-1/4 cups red lentils, rinsed6 to 8 cups vegetable or chicken stock, enough to make a slightly thick soup1 tablespoon fragrant sweet Hungarian or California paprika14-ounce can whole tomatoes, pureed (do not used tomato puree)Garnish:2 tablespoons fresh coriander leaves, coarsely choppedHeat the oil in a 6-quart pot over medium-high. Saute the onion, parsley and fresh coriander with a little salt for about 8 minutes or until barely golden. Add the pepper, garlic, ginger, turmeric and cinnamon and cook another 5 minutes over medium to medium-low. Take great care not to burn the spices. They should be aromatic.Stir in the chickpeas, lentils and broth, and cook a few minutes. Cook the soup at a slow bubble, partially covered, about 1 hour, or until the lentils are dissolved. Add the paprika and the tomatoes, partially cover again, and cook at a slow bubble another 45 minutes to an hour, or until flavors are mellowed. Season to taste. At this point the soup could be refrigerated up to 4 days.Serve the soup hot, sprinkled with the coarsely chopped coriander. A wedge of lemon squeezed into each serving is usual in Morocco. Adding the other spices and the onion is up to you.Dear Lynne: How do you make infused olive oils? Medical problems have me reducing portions and giving up some of my favorite foods. Olive oil is allowed, and it occurs to me that maybe I can get more of a flavor kick if I infuse the oil (buying flavored oils is too expensive). How is this done? -- Not Giving Up in Long BeachDear Not Giving Up: Essentially, infused oil is oil that's heated or blended with flavorings. But there is a hitch: It's believed that homemade infused oils that are stored for more than a day can become incubators for deadly botulism. No taste is worth that kind of risk.There's always another way. In this situation, infuse it and use it; create your flavored oil as you need it, in small quantities. Easiest is pureeing together about 2 tablespoons of good-tasting extra-virgin olive oil with 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon fresh herb leaves.For spices, heating quickly opens up fragrance and flavor. Two to 3 tablespoons oil to 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of spice is where to begin, then add more to taste. Heat the mix for 10 seconds in a microwave. Let it cool about 5 minutes and check for fragrance. If you crush whole spices into the oil, flavors and aroma will be even more intense. Steam cauliflower, broccoli or greens, and then drizzle with an allspice oil, or fresh chive oil. Truly good.(Lynne Rossetto Kasper hosts "The Splendid Table," American Public Media's national food show and co-author of "The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper: Recipes, Stories and Opinions." Ask questions and find Lynne, recipes and station listings at splendidtable.org, or 800-537-5252.)