Spice it up.

Dear Lynne: Normally I do everything from scratch and it occurred to me that I could probably make my own spice blends instead of buying ready-made ones, and end up with better quality. Your ideas for different types would be a great sendoff. Thank you. -- BrettDear Brett: You are I are on the same wavelength. Recently I realized that I use certain combinations again and again, so to save time, I've been putting some combos together. These are the ones I've done so far; maybe some will work for you.A good tip to remember: If you doubt how herbs or spices will taste together, put them on your tongue. You'll know instantly.The best perk you get from doing your own spice blends is flavor --- nothing in a jar is going to surpass freshly ground spices (which means a coffee grinder is needed). Invest in a high-quality one; the payback is immeasurable.How to Store Spice Blends:Store all of these in sealed containers and put in a cool, dark place. Use them within a month or so for optimum flavor. Certainly halve the recipes if they're too much to use up quickly.How to Use Spice Blends:Sprinkle or rub them over any dish from soups to desserts. For instance, Garam Masala is delicious in a sweet custard, homemade ice cream, spice cookies and chocolate desserts.French Four-Spice Blend is typically used in pates and sausages, but it also seasons seafood, poultry and many vegetable dishes. I like it in tomato soups. Like Garam Masala, this is excellent in gingerbread and spice-cookie recipes.The Mideast-North African Spice Blend and the Mediterranean Spice Blend both work best with savory dishes -- the usual roasts and grills, but also in dishes with fruits either dried or fresh, like bass grilled with orange slices or lamb with raisins. For a different sort of effect, sprinkle them into the pan at the end of cooking.Four-Chilie Barbecue Rub needs no explanation -- except to say that sauteed with onion, garlic and canned beans, it gives you a dynamite main dish. In fact, sauteed with most vegetables, from potatoes to broccoli to chard, the rub lends an unexpected sweet/hot finish.A Homemade Spice Blend CollectionI think of these blends as freeing us to improvise, and nothing you can buy will equal their freshly ground quality. Besides, they're good gifts to take along to parties (and life-savers to have stashed in your pocket to spice up disappointing restaurant meals).GARAM MASALA (INDIAN SPICE BLEND)Makes about 1/2 cupUse the blend in non-Indian dishes, like corn chowder, tomato soup, a stew of beef in red wine and definitely in molasses cookies.2 tablespoons black peppercorns2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds2 tablespoons whole coriander seeds1 tablespoon cardamon seeds (removed from pods)12 whole cloves1 generous teaspoon fennel seeds4 3-inch pieces of cinnamon sticks, brokenPlace all the spices in a medium skillet. Set over medium heat. Stir about 3 minutes, or until fragrant. Cool on a plate.Finely grind in a coffee grinder or blender. If using a blender, you may need to sift the mix to remove larger pieces, which can be reground.Pour into small jars. Store away from light and heat. Use as a final seasoning in all kinds of salads, rice dishes, stews and soups. Rub onto meats, fish and vegetables before grilling or roasting.FRENCH FOUR-SPICE BLEND (QUATRE EPICES)Makes about 1/3 cupRub this into chicken with some olive oil and garlic and then slow roast with diced turnips and new potatoes in a 325-degree oven. Keep basting everything with the pan juices and a little white wine. So French, especially with a salad of new spring greens.2 tablespoons whole allspice2 tablespoons whole cloves2 tablespoons ground cinnamon2 teaspoons freshly ground nutmegPlace all the spices in a coffee grinder and grind to a fine powder. Store in an airtight container away from heat and light.MY OWN MIDEAST-NORTH AFRICAN SPICE BLENDMakes about 1/3 cupI must use this at least two times a week. It works miracles on plain old vegetable-lentil soup. Finish the soup with a squeeze of fresh lemon.2 tablespoons whole cumin seed2 tablespoons whole coriander seed1 tablespoon whole cinnamon2 tablespoons sweet California paprika1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepperCombine all the spices in a coffee grinder and grind very finely. Store the blend in an airtight container.MEDITERRANEAN SPICE BLENDMakes a scant 1/4 cupThis is particularly fine rubbed into seafood before steaming, sauteing, roasting or grilling.3 tablespoons dry Greek oregano1-1/2 tablespoons whole fennel seeds1-1/2 teaspoons whole black peppercornsGrind the ingredients together in a coffee mill and store in a cool, dark place in an airtight container.FOUR-CHILIE BARBECUE RUBMakes close to 1/2 cupAnything that is pork is a natural for this rub, but consider what it can do for sauteed cauliflower or grilled beef ribs.2 tablespoons sweet California paprika2 tablespoons fruity mellow ground ancho or aleppo chilies1 tablespoon ground chipotle chilie1 teaspoon or more ground cayenne pepper1 tablespoon freshly ground black peppercorns1/4 cup brown sugarSpoon everything into a jar, shake to combine and seal airtight. Store away from heat and light.(Lynne Rossetto Kasper hosts "The Splendid Table," American Public Media's national food show and co-author of "The Splendid Table's How to Eat Supper: Recipes, Stories and Opinions." Ask questions and find Lynne, recipes and station listings at splendidtable.org, or 800-537-5252.)(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, http://www.scrippsnews.com)