Smoking points for oils when frying ... A Parsnip Stew

ShareThis

Dear Lynne: I like fast stir-fries when I get home from work and I like to cook with extra-virgin olive oil, but I've heard you shouldn't use olive oil for high-heat cooking, like frying. Is this true and, if it is, what oil should I use? -- Sally on Bainbridge IslandDear Sally: You always hear about extra-virgin olive oil having a low "smoke point," the concept being that once oil smokes, it is breaking down. That said, much of the Mediterranean has been successfully sauteing and pan-frying with olive oil for centuries. When I use my wok for Western-style stir-fries, I always use extra-virgin olive oil.I found that food scientist Harold McGee points out that, in stir-frying, you first heat the pan over very high heat, then swirl in a small amount of oil and, a moment afterward, add the food. Immediately you begin stir-frying, which means the food and oil are constantly moving and are cooked for a short time. His theory is that the oil never overheats. So use your extra-virgin olive oil for stir-fries.For future reference, here are the approximate smoking or burn temperatures for other oils. My own health preference is to use cold-pressed or expeller-pressed oils, since they are not treated with heat or chemicals to change their natural structure and nutrients. It is one way of avoiding trans fats.This business of smoking points get confusing. In going to several professional sources for this information, I found minor disagreements on exact temperatures. This list is based on one from another food scientist, Shirley Corriher. So consider the numbers as basic guides. One caveat: These temperatures are for fresh oils only. Once you've heated an oil and fried in it, the second time it is heated, its smoke point will be lower.APPROXIMATE SMOKING POINTS FOR OILS APPROPRIATE FOR FRYINGSunflower oil 392 degrees FPeanut oil 410Soybean oil 410Canola oil 437Grapeseed oil 450Safflower Oil 450Almond Oil 495Rice Bran oil 500Dear Lynne: "Seasonal" in my neck of the country means parsnips, potatoes and cabbage. So boring! So my challenge for you is what to do with these roots that isn't about buying a couple of pounds of meat. -- Benjamin in WisconsinDear Benjamin: Come on, this isn't so hard. You've got good food waiting to happen. Your combo practically cheers, "Chowder!"Do this recipe, which was inspired by an old cookbook from Maine by the historical novelist Kenneth Roberts. A cross between an early New England chowder and stew, it turns your boring roots into pretty decent eating. The biscuits were meant to use up those bits of deep-smoked country bacon from last year's porker. Pears and cheddar cheese are a good finish here.PARSNIP STEW WITH SMOKING-DAY BISCUITSParsnip Stew can be prepared several days before serving and then refrigerated, or frozen in an airtight container for up to three months.4-6 servings12 ounces good thickly cut bacon (without nitrates and nitrites, if possible), cut into 1/2-inch pieces2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice1 large onion, cut the same waySalt and freshly ground black pepper3 to 4 large or 5 to 7 small parsnips, peeled and cut the same way1 tightly packed cup chopped green cabbage1 medium to large red-skin potato, peeled and diced5 cups good-tasting vegetable or chicken stock1 bay leaf4 whole cloves1/2 teaspoon ground allspice4 to 6 branches fresh thyme, or 1 generous teaspoon fresh thyme leavesGarnish:4 tablespoons parsley leavesCombine the bacon and olive oil in a heavy 6-quart pot. Set over medium heat and cook until bacon is crisp. Lift bacon out of the pan with a slotted spoon and reserve. Pour off all but about 2 to 3 tablespoons of fat from the pot.Add the carrot and onion, along with salt and pepper. Turn heat up to medium high and saute until the onion is starting to brown. Add 2/3 of the bacon pieces and all the remaining ingredients, except the parsley.Bring to a gentle bubble and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes or until vegetables are tender but still somewhat firm. Taste for seasoning.Serve the stew in deep bowls topped with the parsley. Pass the hot Smoking-Day Biscuits with honey and/or soft butter on the side.SMOKING-DAY BISCUITSBiscuits can be kept warm, wrapped in foil in a 150-degree oven for about 40 minutes.Makes about 2 dozen1 cup all-purpose unbleached flour1 cup cake flour (do not use self-rising)4 teaspoons baking powder1/2 teaspoon salt1/4 cup (1/2 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces1/3 of the cooked bacon from Parsnip Stew (crumbled)2 small whole scallions, thinly sliced2/3 to 3/4 cup cold milkUnsalted butterHoneyPreheat oven to 425 degrees. Grease baking sheet and set aside. Combine the flours, baking powder and salt in deep bowl and mix well.With your fingertips or a pastry cutter, work the butter into the flour mixture until the mixture looks like coarse cornmeal. Toss in bacon and scallions, using fork.Add enough milk to make dough moist but not wet, tossing with a fork until just blended; do not overwork dough.Turn the dough onto a floured board and knead only once or twice. Gently nudge it into a rectangle about 1/2-inch thick. Cut into squares and place them on the baking sheet about 1/8- to 1/4-inch apart. Bake until puffed and golden, 15-18 minutes. Serve the biscuits hot with unsalted butter and honey.(Lynne Rossetto Kasper hosts "The Splendid Table," American Public Media's weekly national show for people who love to eat. For more information, visit www.splendidtable.org or call 1-800-537-5252. For more stories visit scrippsnews.com.)(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, http://www.scrippsnews.com)