ShareThisNEW YORK -- It may be the middle of winter, but one couldn't tell that from the flashy ensembles being showcased at New York Fashion Week, which ended Friday. Breezy, brightly colored floral-print dresses made of tissue-thin fabrics are being sent down the runways -- not for the spring and summer lines but for the fall-winter collections.America's top designers aren't confused about the season. Rather, concerned that the nation may be heading for, or already is in, recession, they are presenting an abundance of summer-friendly designs aimed at encouraging shoppers to open their wallets as the prime spring season approaches.Everybody's worried about the economy these days, and the fashion world is no different. There was much less opulence in womenswear at this week's exhibits, with an increasing use of less-costly textiles adorned with ruffles, pleats, lacework and beads. Crystals and gemstones were less prevalent in eveningwear, and while there was plenty of velvet and cashmere in the fall lines, they were of varying quality and prices.Observers discerned that designers, themselves budget-conscious, used less-expensive fabrics and other materials to trim costs -- and to be able to offer better deals to consumers. "It feels as though many designers have opted for fabrics that are of lesser distinction and for more seasonless items versus heavyweights," observed Tom Julian, New York-based director of trends for the global advertising agency McCann Erickson.As she settled into a seat before the Vera Wang show, eBay style director Constance White wondered if pennies were being pinched at several shows where she saw "talented designers using monotonous fabrics" at a time when mills have turned out such a rich selection of textiles.Some designers known for dressing celebrities and other well-heeled clients for the red carpet and special events admitted they made changes in consideration of consumer jitters about the economy.After showing a collection that included chiffon gowns and several glenplaid separates with gold lurex, celebrity favorite Pamella Roland said in a backstage interview that while she will continue making her pricey gowns for Saks Fifth Avenue and other high-end retailers, she also has added some looks for less. "Our prices are more spread out," she said.In times of consumer worry about the economy, designers must work harder to give the public a reason to buy. Aside from price, that's most easily achieved by creative unique pieces, adding special details and, especially for women, injecting irresistible color.And there was plenty of spectacular color in collections. Not just red, orange and jewel tones, but varying shades of purple and green, the addition of copper as an alternative to gold and silver, and widespread use of shock colors such as fuchsia, chartreuse and hot yellow.Such a color explosion might seem counterintuitive to conventional wisdom that says the palette darkens in winter. But so much color, combined with novel embellishment of clothes, can be a powerful tool to entice women to buy, said Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director for Neiman Marcus Stores."The profusion of color in fall collections is very important for the customer" in terms of deciding whether to buy, he said. "In economic uncertainty, women want something special."Uncertain economic times weren't the only factor behind garments in lighter-weight fabrics, vibrant colors and floral prints. Concerns about global warming and its impact on the traditional seasons also played a role."Fall has all but disappeared here in the United States" because of warmer climates in fall and winter, Downing said. But he noted there are economic incentives, as well: lighter, more colorful fabrics tend to cost less and are important in many markets around the world, particularly in Asia and India where the currency exchange rate is highly favorable and the luxury-goods markets are booming.(LaMont Jones can be reached at ljones(at)post-gazette.com. For more stories, visit scrippsnews.com.)
Summer-friendly designs -- for fall
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