Humming in the shower ...venting a problem

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Q: Dear Ed, I think of you as the pied piper of plumbing, so I'll follow your advice to correct my problem. Recently we remodeled our bathroom and I love my new shower stall. It works great except for a humming sound that will not stop unless we turn off the shower or strangely enough, we turn on a faucet while the shower is running. I can't figure this out. Why would turning on a faucet stop the shower from humming? -- Fred, Mississippi A: Hello Fred, I receive a lot of letters just like yours about singing showers. It's amazing how so many people can have the same problem and most of the time it's a simple solution that most homeowners and many plumbers overlook.The culprit most likely in this case may be high water pressure in your home. In most areas of the country any plumbing system with water pressure over 80 pounds per square inch or psi for short, is considered too high for residential use. An easy test that you can do yourself to determine your water pressure is to go down to your local home center or supply house and buy a water pressure test gauge.These gauges simply screw on to your outside faucet (Silcock.) spout, and when you open the valve the pressure is displayed on the gauge. Normal ranges are usually between 35 psi to 75 psi. Any water pressure over 80 psi is too high for most homes and a plumber should be called to install a "pressure reducer valve" to correct the problem. I suspect that your old shower used more than 2.5 gallons per minute and your new shower system meets the current code of 2.5 gallons per minute or less.That reduction in flow combined with possible high water pressure can produce a humming sound in your plumbing system. To back that up, you said when you open up a faucet while the shower is running the noise stops. Opening up a second fixture usually takes some pressure off the first fixture, and there you go. Less pressure may be stopping the noise! Plumbing problems are always tricky and the only way to solve them is one step at a time. Once you correct your pressure problem you should find your shower singing a different tune; "The sound of silence"!Q: Hi Ed, I'd like to know if it's possible to use only indoor air admittance valves for my house plumbing vent system? I would use at least one air admittance valve per floor in accordance with the drain fixture units for my drain system. That would eliminate any vent pipes coming up through my roof. -- Tony, TexasA: Good luck Tony, I personally have never heard of any local codes that allow complete indoor venting of a plumbing drain and vent system. Plumbing vents are designed to vent the sewer or septic system drains going into a home outside to the atmosphere. In some cases according to local codes an air admittance valve may be used on a system in conjunction with the main venting and drainage system to cut down on the amount of vent pipes coming up through the roof. However, these vents need to be placed in approved areas according to local codes and in some areas may not be allowed at all. My advice is to meet with your local inspectors or consult with a licensed plumber in your area to get your permit and code information straight. I cannot tell anyone what is allowed or what is not allowed in your area since plumbing codes vary from town to town. I don't want to put up a stink, but if it were my house, I would want all my sewer vents going outside! (Master Contractor/Plumber Ed Del Grande is known nationally as the author of the book "Ed Del Grande's House Call" and for hosting TV shows on Scripps Networks and HGTVPro.com. For information visit eddelgrande.com or write eddelgrande(at)hgtvpro.com. Always consult local contractors and codes.)