ShareThisBy PAIGE HERMAN and MARIE KUECHEL
newbeauty.com
Tuesday, September 04, 2007
There have been concerns about the safety of hydroquinone for years, and the Food and Drug Administration's proposed ban on over-the-counter products containing this skin-lightening ingredient in August 2006 became a focus of media attention. Now that it looks like hydroquinone will remain on the market, what was all the buzz about?
How does hydroquinone work?
Hydroquinone works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that causes a darkening of the skin and leads to hyper-pigmentation or sunspots. Many dermatologists consider hydroquinone to be the most effective skin-lightening ingredient available and, to date, it is the only skin-bleaching agent approved by the FDA. Hydroquinone is used to fade the appearance of freckles, sun spots, liver spots, melasma and dark spots that remain after blemishes, burns or other injuries heal.
The availability of hydroquinone
At this time in the United States, the FDA limits over-the-counter concentrations of hydroquinone to 2 percent. Prescription products that contain hydroquinone are limited to levels of up to 5 percent. The status of hydroquinone in Europe and Asia is often misrepresented, and many reports state that hydroquinone is banned on these two continents. The fact is, hydroquinone at any concentration must be obtained through prescription in Europe and, as of January 2008, it will be available only by prescription in Asia, as well. Until then, hydroquinone is still available over the counter.
HQ alternatives
There's been a lot of buzz about naturally derived hydroquinone alternatives in light of the controversy over the substance, but hydroquinone is the only skin lightener recognized by the FDA. While many women see great results from other ingredients presented as alternatives, it's important to note that they have not been proven to work, nor have they been FDA-approved for skin-lightening.
The controversy
Hydroquinone has been used as a skin lightener in the United States for more than 40 years, and received FDA approval for over-the-counter use in 1982. But over the past 25 years, studies have shed light on potential side effects.
Concern: Possible cancer-causing and liver-damaging effects in rats
Reality: All of these studies were based on exposure to extremely high concentrations of oral hydroquinone, as opposed to the maximum 4 percent used in topical skin-lightening treatments.
Concern: Potential connections between hydroquinone and infertility as well as low birth weight
Reality: These too require further research as no definitive links have been proven. Since hydroquinone is not approved for use during pregnancy, it is important that women of child-bearing age who are currently planning to become pregnant avoid both prescription and over-the-counter hydroquinone.
Concern: Studies that suggest hydroquinone can cause an adverse reaction called ochronosis, which is a darkening of the treated area, even at concentrations as low as 2 percent.
Reality: This buildup of blue-black pigment is most common in darker skin types, such as those of Asian, Hispanic and African decent. It often results from sun exposure during hydroquinone use. Some studies have asserted that there's a link between ochronosis and long-term use of high levels of hydroquinone, as well, though it must be noted that many of these studies come out of South Africa, where hydroquinone has been available over-the-counter in concentrations of more than 5 percent and is often used from head to toe.
Paige Herman and Marie Kuechel are editors of New Beauty, a semi-annual magazine about cosmetic enhancement. Reach them at editors (at)newbeauty.com. For more columns visit www.scrippsnews.com
