Mexican cookbook stands the test of time

By TOM MENTZER
Scripps Howard News Service
Monday, July 16, 2007

Americans may be divided on the politics of immigration with its Southern neighbor, but there seems no arguing that Mexicans make some pretty tasty food. Restaurants are popping up all over that show off authentic south-of-the-border cuisine at its best.

It wasn't long ago that "Mexican" food meant a plate of enchiladas with some bland rice and tepid beans. Now, Mexican cuisine in the United States is experiencing a renaissance thanks to some passionate chefs and an appreciative public.

Among the pioneers who brought true Mexican food to the United States was Rick Bayless. His first cookbook, a product of living six years in Mexico, is now 20 years old and can be difficult to locate. Luckily it has been re-released, and it's a must-have: "Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking From the Heart of Mexico" (Morrow Cookbooks, $30).

The book is an amazing compendium of all things Mexican, and it's just as important today as it was two decades ago.

Think of Bayless as the Julia Child of Mexican food, translating a foreign cuisine for the American kitchen. The book covers preparations from around the country and doesn't cut any corners. His mole poblano, for instance, takes six hours to cook (half of which is hands-on) and calls for two dozen ingredients.

But that's not to say the recipes are overly difficult. When an ingredient may be hard to find, Bayless suggests a substitution. And even the most involved instructions, while sometimes time-consuming, are not beyond the reach of most cooks.

The passion and excitement that Bayless offers on his PBS show also appear in his writing. His tales of learning from native cooks can be quite inspiring, though even Bayless balks at digging a barbecue pit in his backyard.

Bayless also tries to keep the book as authentic as possible, though he does give in occasionally. Introducing his recipe for crisp-fried tortillas, Bayless admits he included this preparation for the "exigencies of the North American audience."

Aside from a few good-natured jabs, the book is a wonderful reference. From soups, egg preparations and proper tamales (showing off the casing rather than the filling) to entrees, desserts and a wide variety of Mexican drinks, there's something for everyone.

One more reason to pick up the book: his Cook's Notes are the best I've ever seen. Bayless uses the margins with brilliant results, explaining technique and equipment; suggesting tips on timing and advance preparation; and offering traditional and contemporary preparations. The book is a culinary encyclopedia.

Sure, a recipe may call for a half-dozen types of dried chiles, but between local ethnic groceries and the Internet, finding ingredients today is a piece of cake compared to the days when the book was first released.

Bayless has written several books since "Authentic Mexican" first hit the shelves, but none offer such a fine balance between being comprehensive and approachable as his first effort. It's a good fit for any kitchen and is guaranteed to be useful another 20 years from now.

RECIPES

HORCHATA (ALMOND-RICE COOLER)

6 tablespoons rice

6 ounces (about 1-1/4 cups) blanched almonds

1 inch cinnamon stick

Three 2-inch strips of lime zest (colored rind only), 3/4 inch wide

About 1 cup sugar

1. Soaking the rice and almonds. Thoroughly pulverize the rice in a blender or spice grinder. Transfer to a medium-size bowl and add the almonds, cinnamon stick and lime zest. Stir in 2-1/4 cups of hot tap water, cover and let stand at least 6 hours or, preferably, overnight.

2. Blending and straining. Scoop the mixture into the blender jar and blend for 3 or 4 minutes, until it no longer feels very gritty. Add 2 cups of water, then blend for a few seconds more. Set a large sieve over a mixing bowl and line with 3 layers of dampened cheesecloth. Pour in the almond-rice mixture a little at a time, gently stirring to help the liquid pass through. When all has been strained, gather up the corner of the cheesecloth and twist them together to trap the dregs inside. Squeeze the package firmly to expel all the remaining liquid.

3. Finishing the horchata. Add 2 cups of water and stir in enough sugar to sweeten the drink to your taste. If the consistency is too thick, add additional water. Cover and refrigerate until you're ready to serve. Stir before pouring.

From "Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking From the Heart of Mexico," Morrow Cookbooks

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MEXICAN FLAVORS

3 tablespoons lard, vegetable oil, bacon drippings, fat rendered from chorizo, or even butter

Fresh hot green chiles to taste (roughly 3 chiles serranos or 1 large chile jalapeno), stemmed

1 small onion, diced

1 ripe, medium-large tomato, cored and diced

8 large eggs

About 1 scant teaspoon salt

1. The flavorings. Melt the lard or other fat in a medium-size skillet set over medium heat. For a milder dish, seed the chiles, then chop them finely and add to the skillet, along with the onion and tomato. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion has softened but is not brown, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low.

2. The eggs. Beat the eggs with the salt, just enough to combine the whites and yolks. Add them to the skillet and scramble until they are as done as you like. Taste for salt, then scoop them into a warm dish and serve right away.

From "Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking From the Heart of Mexico," Morrow Cookbooks

(Tom Mentzer is a free-lance writer. Contact him at tom.mentzer(at)gmail.com.)