ShareThisBy TOM MENTZER
Monday, November 13, 2006
"Food Made Fast" is a new line of books from Williams-Sonoma for the time-starved cook, a planned 15-volume series in this rapidly growing cookbook niche.
The first five books _ "Baking," "Pasta," "Slow Cooker," "Soup" and "Weeknight" (Oxmoor House, $17.95 each) _ do a nice job offering ideas for quick homemade meals with simple, easy-to-follow recipes.
Although most of the ingredient lists require only a handful of items not lingering in the typical pantry, the resulting dishes show a surprising level of depth. Aside from a few taste quibbles (no garlic in the ragu? no thickener in the chowder?), the authors do a fine job with recipes frequently calling for fewer than 10 ingredients.
As with many time-saver cookbooks, the narrative element is limited, and this leaves the series feeling a bit cold. The end of each volume offers a "smarter cook" section, but it seems an afterthought. The series could also use better organization _ recipes are divided by level of effort, but most take about the same time to prepare.
One nice element: each book features a "make more to store" section with three foundation recipes _ think flaky pastry dough, roast chicken, beef stock _ and a few ideas for using each.
The soup volume leads the pack in this first set, balancing classic favorites with bold new ideas. The roasted garlic and curried carrot soups, with only five and seven ingredients, respectively, are flexible successes: pair with salads for simple weeknight dinners or serve either as a palate-priming first course. The slow-cooker recipes are also strong, representing a wide range of cuisines and suggesting some tasty, lazy weekend meals.
The weeknight and pasta collections aren't quite as strong, though each has some gems. Moroccan lamb burgers offer a family-friendly twist, while fusilli with zucchini and goat cheese should tempt adult taste buds.
A bonus: many of the recipes slip in some useful skills. Roasting heads of garlic is an oft-overlooked tactic that can jazz up so many recipes, while traditional dishes like osso buco should broaden the horizon for novice chefs. The baking book lists ingredients by weight, a key lesson for the budding baker that's missing from too many cookbooks.
These books aren't perfect, but they're simple enough for the busy young cook and inventive enough for the jaded, madcap mom. The entire collection would set you back a pretty penny, but a few of the books deserve a second look for their creative selections and clean flavors.
RECIPES
(SHNS tested)
CURRIED CARROT SOUP
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 large shallot, minced
1-1/2 pounds carrots, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon curry powder
6 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons orange juice
Salt and pepper
In a large saucepan over medium heat, warm the 1 tablespoon oil. When it is hot, add the shallot and saute until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the carrots, curry powder and broth. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook until the carrots are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the orange juice. Using a food processor or blender, process to a smooth puree. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
The soup can be served warm or chilled. To serve warm, return the pureed soup to the saucepan and gently warm over medium heat. To serve chilled, let cool, transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for 2-8 hours. Ladle into bowls, drizzle with oil, sprinkle with pepper and serve.
_ Williams-Sonoma's "Food Made Fast: Soup"
MOROCCAN LAMB BURGERS
1-1/2 pounds ground lamb
5 tablespoons fresh mint, minced
5 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
1-1/4 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Salt
Cayenne pepper, to taste
1/2 cup plain yogurt
3/4 cup Roma tomatoes
4 pita breads, cut into wedges
1 large cucumber, halved lengthwise, seeded and thinly sliced crosswise
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct-heat grilling over high heat. In a large bowl, using your hands, mix together the lamb, 4 tablespoons each of the mint and parsley, the onion, 1 teaspoon of the cumin, the cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a pinch of cayenne. Form the lamb mixture into 4 oval patties.
In a small bowl, stir together the yogurt, the remaining mint and parsley, and the remaining cumin. Season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Set aside.
Oil the grill rack. Grill the lamb patties, turning once, for 10 minutes total for medium, or until done to your liking. (Alternatively, cook the lamb patties on the stovetop in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat, turning once, for about 10 minutes total for medium.) Place a lamb patty on each of 4 plates, then top each patty with a spoonful of the yogurt sauce, sprinkle with the tomatoes and serve along with the cucumber slices. Pass the remaining yogurt sauce and the pita breads at the table.
_ Williams-Sonoma's "Food Made Fast: Weeknight"
(Tom Mentzer is a freelance writer. Contact him at tom.mentzer(at)gmail.com)
