ShareThisThere's a great debate going on these days about whether to have a lawn or not. In fact, a growing number of people across America are replacing their sod with low-maintenance ground covers, ornamental grasses, perennials or some combination of the above. Granted, it's a radical change, but one some are willing to take in the name of better environmental stewardship and, certainly, less work.
Unfortunately, a truly low-maintenance lawn does not yet exist. So if you still happen to have some lawn, it's time to roll up those sleeves and get busy on your fall lawn renovation for cool- season turf varieties such as fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and bentgrass. In early to mid-fall, these types are in active growth mode, making now the ideal time to take on this task. Although the soil is still warm, the air is cool. It's the perfect combination for grass seeds to germinate and take root quickly, without the stress of summer heat and humidity.
Renovate vs. Starting Over
The question often arises regarding whether to work with an existing, run-down lawn, or to simply start from scratch. I say that if the lawn is still 50 percent intact, renovate what you have. Otherwise, starting over by replacing the existing lawn usually achieves more satisfying, long-term results.
Either way, begin in September by removing weeds and dead grass. The most practical options include spraying with an herbicide, hand removal or using equipment such as a tiller or sod cutter. If you're renovating and using an herbicide, spot spray the problem-weed areas only. But wherever you spray, be sure to only spray when the weather is very calm, and spray on target to avoid the consequences of chemical drift.
Once the lawn debris is removed or dead, begin the makeover process. Prepare the bare soil to readily accept the seeds or sod by making it loose. A tiller is the easiest tool for this job. The tines will turn the soil over several inches deep and improve drainage. For renovations, consider renting a "core aerator" for preparing the ground. This device extracts cores from the soil and allows for better aeration, compaction relief and improved drainage, all while doing little to no damage to the grass you are trying to preserve.
In either case, this is also the best time to improve the soil by adding or incorporating amendments such as compost, leaf mold, manure, lime and fertilizers. The best way to know what nutrients to add is to refer to a soil test through your county extension service. This test also provides important information regarding the soil's pH level and instructions for bringing it to optimal levels. And at around 10 dollars, it's a bargain!
Next, add seed or sod, depending on the level of makeover you've chosen. For seed, apply it at the rate suggested on the bag. Use a crisscross pattern with the spreader to ensure adequate coverage. For sod, lay it down in rows, alternating the seams from row to row. For either case, a rented, water-filled barrel roller is a good tool for making sure the seeds or turf have good contact with the soil. Lastly, keep the seed or sod moist until it is established, usually with several light waterings throughout the day.
After your new lawn is established, it should receive about 1 inch of water per week in the absence of rain. A second application of lawn fertilizer can be applied about six weeks after the first. This will provide all the nutrients your new lawn needs to grow strong and thrive well into the new year.
If a lush, healthy cool-season lawn is on your wish list this fall, a few important steps taken now will make it the envy of the neighborhood, and make your spring lawn care even easier too.
(Joe Lamp'l, host of "GardenSMART" on PBS, is a Master Gardener and author. For more information visit www.joegardener.com. For more stories, visit scrippsnews.com.)
THE GARDENER WITHIN
