ShareThisThroughout the year, one of the most common questions I get relates to the best time to plant or transplant trees and shrubs. My quick answer is that as long as the ground isn't frozen, you can plant any time, although you decrease your chances of success substantially if you don't do it in autumn; no matter where you live, fall is the very best time.
Even in the warmest regions, the cooler air and warm soil temperatures of fall make the best combination for establishment. Cooler air is kinder to plant foliage, and reduces the chances of an energy-zapping chain reaction throughout the rest of the plant. This is especially true for the ones that have just lost a major portion of their roots from being dug up. In addition, soil temperatures are still warm, which creates an excellent environment for the production of new root growth.
Another benefit to fall transplanting is that many plants and trees are entering a period of dormancy. With no need to allocate resources into foliage, plants are now transferring all their energy into roots and storing nutrients and resources for the cool months ahead. By spring, the result should be a well-established root system and plants that are better equipped to handle the upcoming demands of spring and summer.
Here are a few additional tips to ensure the success of all your fall transplants:
When preparing any hole for an incoming shrub or tree, make the hole two to three times wider than the current root ball, but don't make it any deeper than the plant was growing in its previous environment. An even better guide with trees is to look for the flare of the trunk near the soil level. In the planting, don't place the tree to a point where any part of that flare is ultimately covered with soil. I provide this added bit of guidance because, unfortunately, even nurseries sometimes put plants too deep in the containers. There have been many times where I've actually had to pull away soil to get back to the base of the trunk flare.
I go one step further by placing transplants in their new environment with up to 1/3 of the root ball higher than the surrounding soil level. I then taper soil up to cover all the roots and add a generous layer of mulch above that. Newly disturbed soil has a tendency to settle, and plants growing below grade can easily succumb to root rot or disease. In my book it's always better to plant a tree or shrub slightly high and allow the area to drain than for a plant to sit in a bowl and collect excess water.
Contrary to traditional planting methods, new research indicates that you should not amend the hole with additional organic material; plant roots growing in amended soil rarely venture into harder native soil. The long-term effect is a smaller root system, reduced growth and a less hardy plant. Instead, simply break up the clumps in existing soil and remove the rocks and backfill. Studies show that plant roots growing in only the native soil actually did a better job at establishing and expanding beyond the original hole.
Be sure to lightly tamp or hand-pack the soil around plant roots to ensure good soil-to-root contact. I add water to the hole after backfilling it halfway. Not only does it provide needed moisture, but the extra water also helps eliminate air pockets that could otherwise result in dead roots. I then water again thoroughly once all the soil is in place.
The final step is to mulch with 3 to 4 inches of organic matter such as shredded leaves, ground bark or straw. Mulch helps retain moisture and keeps soil temperatures moderate. Winter conditions can be very dry, so water throughout the winter to prevent soil conditions from becoming too arid -- roots are still growing, and soil moisture is essential for proper establishment.
The fall season is the perfect time to relocate trees and shrubs, or plant new ones. It's easier on you and the plants, and you'll be rewarded for your efforts next spring and beyond.
(Joe Lamp'l, host of "GardenSMART" on PBS, is a Master Gardener and author. For more information, visit www.joegardener.com. For more stories, visit scrippsnews.com.)
THE GARDENER WITHIN
