Dare to make some new dishes this Thanksgiving

The search for new recipes for weeknight meals and dinner parties is ceaseless: We all want something different to serve to our families and something new that'll wow our friends.

When it comes to the holiday table, though, it's the same old same old that we crave.

But can a little updating hurt? Is it really going to kill us if we don't see sweet potatoes covered in marshmallow goo on the table come Thanksgiving? And how about brightening that turkey up with a citrus rub this year?

My search for alternate recipes began because, well, I've pretty much always disliked the sweet potato. I'll temper my annual declaration with this stipulation: It's really the syrupy, marshmallow-defiled sweet potato that I cannot bear.

Whip the sweet potato, put it in a gratin or even, for those of you who must have it sweetened, top it with a pecan streusel and then you're talking.

Cranberries from a can hold no appeal for me, but many in my family still prefer the jellied stuff to a true relish. I'm printing my favorite spicy cranberry relish, one I've run before, and a riff on a Jezebel sauce that starts with jellied, canned sauce.

The recipes with this story are not exactly going to win a healthy-heart award, but any of them certainly can be lightened up.

You can replace heavy cream with half-and-half in the Smoked Chile Scalloped Sweet Potatoes, but keep in mind that the texture might be compromised. Using milk instead of half-and-half in the Chevre Sage Mashed Sweet Potatoes, however, should make little difference.

Consider reduced-fat cream cheese and turkey bacon in other recipes, should you want to cut back. I'd prefer a bite or two of the real thing, but do what makes you most comfortable.

Servings in these recipes are full-size, so I haven't increased the recipes.

In my family we generally have so many different dishes that we take only a spoonful or two of each, anyway. Any of these recipes should double without issue, except for the desserts; if you want more, make two.

LEMON-THYME TURKEY RUB

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

3/4 teaspoon table salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

In a small bowl, use a spoon or silicone spatula to mix together all of the ingredients.

Carefully separate the turkey's skin from the flesh, trying to avoid breaking the skin. Use your hands to work the mixture under the skin, covering the flesh. Replace the skin, then rub the mixture over the outside of the turkey's skin. Roast according to your recipe. Makes enough for a 12- to 14-pound turkey.

-- Adapted from the November 2007 issue of Cook's Illustrated

SMOKED CHILE SCALLOPED SWEET POTATOES

2 cups heavy cream

1 heaping tablespoon chipotle pepper puree

3 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced 1/8-inch thick

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Whisk together cream and chipotle puree until smooth. In a 9-by-9-inch casserole dish, arrange the potatoes in even layers. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons of the cream mixture and season with salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining potatoes, cream, and salt and pepper to form 10 layers.

Cover and bake for 30 minutes, remove cover and continue baking for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the cream has been absorbed and the potatoes are cooked through and the top is browned. Makes 6 servings.

-- foodnetwork.com

CHEVRE SAGE MASHED SWEET POTATOES

2 pounds sweet potatoes

4 cloves garlic

Salt

1/2 to 1 cup half-and-half

4 ounces chevre or other mild goat cheese

1/4 cup butter

1 to 2 tablespoons fresh chopped sage

Freshly ground black pepper

Place potatoes in a large pot of water (enough to cover) and add garlic cloves and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat and boil until tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Drain and peel away skins, then return peeled potatoes to the pot.

And half-and-half (start with 1/2 cup), chevre and butter, and mash until smooth. Add additional half-and-half if necessary. Stir in sage and reheat over medium heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serves 6.

-- Adapted from "All the Best Recipes," Jane Rodmell

EASY SWEET-POTATO CASSEROLE

2 eggs

1 cup granulated sugar

3/4 cup butter, softened

1/2 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

3 cups cooked mashed sweet potatoes

Topping:

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/3 cup flour

2 tablespoons butter, softened

1/2 cup chopped pecans

Beat eggs, granulated sugar and 3/4 cup butter. Add milk and vanilla. Combine with the mashed sweet potatoes; spoon into a greased 2-quart casserole. Combine brown sugar, flour, 2 tablespoons softened butter and pecans, mixing until crumbly; sprinkle over sweet potatoes. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes. Serves 6.

-- southernfood.about.com

GREEN BEANS WITH PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS AND BACON

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 large portobello mushrooms, gills removed and caps sliced in 1/4-inch slices (slice stems in 1/2-inch thick rounds)

1/4 cup finely chopped shallots

4 ounces sliced bacon

1-1/2 pounds green beans, trimmed, cut in 2-inch lengths and cooked until crisp-tender

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch skillet and saute the mushroom caps and stems over medium heat, stirring, until lightly browned. Add the shallots and stir until softened, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Add remaining oil to pan and cook the bacon until crisp. Leave the bacon drippings in the pan, but drain the bacon. When cool, chop and set aside.

Just before serving, heat skillet so that bacon drippings sizzle. Add green beans and mushrooms/shallots, cover and cook until heated through, stirring occasionally. Add bacon and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately. Serves 8.

-- "Thanksgiving 101," Rick Rodgers

CRANBERRY RELISH

1 (12-ounce) bag fresh cranberries

2 seedless tangerines (clementines or satsumas are good), peeled

1 to 2 serrano peppers

1 to 1-1/2 cups sugar

Put cranberries, tangerines, 1 pepper (or less, if you want a mild relish) and 1 cup sugar in the food processor. Process for about 30 seconds, check, then pulse if necessary until mixture is uniformly ground. Taste; if needed, add remaining sugar and more pepper (this will depend on the sweetness of the citrus, the tartness of the cranberries and the heat in the pepper). Process again. Makes about 2 cups.

-- Jennifer Biggs

CRANBERRY JEZEBEL SAUCE

1 (14-ounce) can jellied cranberry sauce

1 cup orange marmalade

1/4 cup dry mustard

1/2 cup prepared horseradish, or to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Heat over low heat until melted, stirring occasionally. Put in bowl and store in refrigerator until the jelly sets. Makes about 3 cups.

-- Jennifer Biggs

MARBLED PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE

1-1/2 cups crushed gingersnap cookies

1/2 cup finely chopped pecans

1/3 cup butter, melted

2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened

3/4 cup white sugar, divided

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 eggs

1 cup canned pumpkin

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a medium bowl, mix together the crushed gingersnap cookies, pecans and butter. Press into the bottom, and about 1 inch up the sides of a 9-inch springform pan. Bake crust 10 minutes in the preheated oven. Set aside to cool.

In a medium bowl, mix together the cream cheese, 1/2 cup sugar and vanilla just until smooth. Mix in eggs one at a time, blending well after each. Set aside 1 cup of the mixture. Blend 1/4 cup sugar, pumpkin cinnamon, and nutmeg into the remaining mixture.

Spread the pumpkin-flavored batter into the crust, and drop the plain batter by spoonfuls onto the top. Swirl with a knife to create a marbled effect.

Bake 55 minutes in the preheated oven, or until filling is set. Run a knife around the edge of the pan. Allow to cool before removing pan rim. Chill for at least 4 hours before serving. Serves 12.

-- allrecipes.com

CHOCOLATE FUDGE PECAN PIE BARS

2-2/3 cups all-purpose flour

1-1/4 cups packed light brown sugar, divided

1 cup (2 sticks) cold butter or margarine

4 eggs

1 cup light corn syrup

1 package (4-ounce) Hershey's unsweetened chocolate baking bar, unwrapped and melted

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups coarsely chopped pecans

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease jellyroll pan. Stir together flour and 1/4 cup brown sugar in large bowl. With pastry blender, cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs; press onto bottom of prepared pan.

Bake 10 to 15 minutes or until set. Remove from oven. With back of spoon, lightly press crust into corners and against sides of pan.

Beat eggs, corn syrup, remaining 1 cup brown sugar, melted chocolate, vanilla and salt; stir in pecans. Pour mixture evenly over warm crust. Return to oven.

Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until chocolate filling is set. Cool completely in pan on wire rack. Cut into bars.

-- hersheys.com

(Contact Jennifer Biggs of The Commercial Appeal in Memphis, Tenn., at biggs(at)commercialappeal.com.)

(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, http://www.scrippsnews.com)