ShareThisMatt Warshaw's new book, "The History of Surfing" ($50; Chronicle Books), is his eighth on surfing and its culture. Here are excerpts of an interview with the 50-year-old author:
Q: Is this book heavier than a surfboard?
A: It depends on the board. It's heavier than the boards I ride.
Q: Surfing used to be for dropouts. What happened?
A: It went mainstream. All the people that used to look at you oddly because you surfed, they all surf. Nobody doesn't surf now.
Q: What would the dropouts think of the tech geeks co-opting their sport?
A: There are a lot of people that lament what's happened to it. Surfing is not really cool now. If everybody does it and if surfboards are available at Costco and if Target sponsors professional surfers, it's hard to make the argument that surfing is cool.
Q: Is this book heavy on the words for surfing literature?
A: It is 275,000 words and 275 photos. You can go four pages without a photo. But it's still an oversize, deluxe book, and I paid as much attention to the photos that are in there as I did to the words. Every photo really had to count. But if I had my choice, I'd rather have it remembered for the text than for the photos.
Q: Do you have a favorite photo?
A: There is a picture from Monterey of a surfboard with a big bite taken out of it. That was the only surfer in California to ever be killed by a shark, a guy named Lew Boren. It was the day before Christmas in 1981. A policeman is talking to these guys who found his board.
Q: Now that you've written both the encyclopedia and the history of surfing, what is next?
A: I'm done writing books. I'm going to take "The Encyclopedia of Surfing" online, for www.surfline.com. It may be the biggest project I've ever done. If I'm lucky and we get a backer for it, I'll just ride that to the gold watch.
Q: Where did you grow up?
A: Southern California. A deep dark secret of my life is I was a Valley boy.
Q: What did you want to be?
A: Before we moved to the beach, and before I even learned to swim, I wanted to be a surfer.
Q: First job?
A: A printer's devil in a one-man print shop. I was 16 or 17. I cleaned the press and picked up supplies. I didn't want to work. All I wanted to do was surf.
Q: Regrets?
A: I didn't use enough sunscreen when I was young. I've had three or four skin cancers.
Q: What would surprise people to know about you?
A: I love country-western music. I listen to a lot of Dwight Yoakam and Jim Lauderdale. I love Randy Travis.
Q: Secret talent?
A: Before my brain started going, I could identify a song on the radio within one or two notes.
Q: Who plays you in the movie?
A: It would have to be Kevin Bacon.
(E-mail Sam Whiting at swhiting(at)sfchronicle.com.)
(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, www.scrippsnews.com.)
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