scripps networks

By HELE MALANI
shopzilla.com
Tuesday, May 08, 2007

Flowers, breakfast in bed, brunch at a crowded, overpriced restaurant. Has your mother pretended to love these things on Mother's Day every single year of your life? Of course she has, because she's your mom. Enough already. Try this novel idea: put a little thought into your gift! (No reason she has to know that these are my thoughts and not yours.)

I have walked the online world so you wouldn't have to, and here are my hand-picked best-in-class Mother's Day gifts sure to delight all kinds of moms 'til Christmas.

FUNNY MOM: Most mothers I know (including my own) have a little something to get off their chest. Message tees with an attitude will put something back on her chest. Mom-centric messages include "Nanny Deprived", "PTA Reject", "Secretary of Transportation", "Mother Superior", and my favorite, "Whine? No. Wine? Yes." planetmomtshirts.com

FUN WITH KNIVES MOM: Boring old butcher blocks have nothing on this knife set in the shape of a man's body. Any mom with a wicked sense of humor will enjoy putting her shiny stainless steels through this guy. Spice up her kitchen and make the point that Mom is not to be messed with. perpetualkid.com

FAMISHED MOM: What says "I love you, Mom" better than live crustaceans delivered to her door? If you can't be there to take her to a delicious lobster dinner, send the lobster to her. These guys are some of Oprah's Favorite Things, and they're perfect for procrastinating gift-givers since they must be shipped no sooner than 24 hours in advance. livelob.com

FAST MOM, FANCY MOM: Mom not the bootie-knitting type? Put her behind the wheel of a Nextel stock car, or splurge on a shopping spree at Saks Fifth Avenue with her own personal shopper. To really show the love, have a professional songwriter compose a custom song especially for her. Yes, these gifts cost a pretty penny, but think of the "aaaawwww!" factor. xperiencedays.com

Imagine Mom thanking you this year: no acting required.

Helen Malani is the chief shopping expert for Shopzilla.com, an E.W. Scripps company, and the largest comparison shopping search engine on the Web. For more columns visit www.scrippsnews.com

By ANNA WALLNER and KRISTIN MATISIC
Fine Living Network
Tuesday, May 08, 2007

We're assuming May 1313 is marked in bold on your calendar. If it isn't, it should be! Mother's Day is just around the corner. And if you're at a loss as to what to give yours, we've got some advice to help you narrow the choices and find the perfect trinket or treasure that says "I love you."

_ What are your mother's hobbies? Does she cook? Get her something for her kitchen like a personalized apron from Williams and Sonoma or the ultimate bakers' appliance, the Kitchen-Aid stand mixer, which comes in a range of colors. Is she a fashionista? Ballet flats are all the rage right now and they fit every body size. Check her closet for shoe sizes. The key is to ask yourself what does she do with her free time, what does she do to make herself happy? Therein lies a host of great gift ideas.

_ What's going on in your mom's life? Does she have a trip coming up? Perhaps a guide book to her destination. Is there something she has admired or mentioned that she wants lately? (This is something you should keep notes on all year, by the way). By taking a few minutes with a pen and paper and asking yourself questions about who your mom is, what's happening in her life and what makes her happy you will quickly find some specific, personal gift ideas.

_ Be sure the gift you buy is actually for her and not for you. Don't buy her kitchen goods if you want her to cook more for you!

_ Flowers are a traditional and popular gift. Ask your florist what's in season to get the freshest buds at the best prices. (Here are a few examples: Daffodils, January to early May. Star Gazer Lilies, January to October. Peonies, late spring to early summer. Sweetpea, December to May).

_ Keep in mind that the moms we polled said that what they really wanted was more time with their children. That may be the greatest gift of all!

(Anna Wallner and Kristina Matisic host The Shopping Bags on Fine Living TV Network. Contact them at www.fineliving.com. For more columns visit www.scrippsnews.com)

By ED DEL GRANDE
HGTVPro.com
Monday, May 07, 2007

Q: Ed, we read you every week; you're like having a personal contractor for us. So I'd like to ask you a question. I am disabled and we have been using the standard tub that came with our house for my shower. Even though we have a sturdy shower chair in the tub for me to sit on, it's still a chore getting me into the tub because of the high tub wall. My husband wants to remove the tub and make a special-needs shower for me, but we don't know how we can do this. We would like as little curb as possible or even a flat floor so we can roll my wheelchair right in. Is this possible and how is this done? Thank you, Ed! _ Bob & Kathy, Florida

A: Thank you, Kathy, for your letter; it's a good reminder to many people of the day-to-day struggles that disabled families go through to accomplish things around the house that many of us take for granted ... like getting into a tub.

I've worked on a lot of special needs bathrooms and I don't have to tell you that a standard bathtub side wall can be a very large obstacle to overcome if you are in a wheelchair. Fortunately, builders and manufacturers also have realized this and today there are some very good options for special needs shower bases. Most bathtubs take up about a five-foot area and you can get a shower base that will fit perfectly into a standard tub footprint once the bathtub is removed. More good news is that usually the drains and water lines will line up with these shower bases as well! However, in most cases new surround walls will have to be installed so everything will match up.

Since you're just installing a shower base, this will give you different options for your wall materials, such as tile or fiberglass. Speaking of the walls, once opened up, make sure that backing support boards are installed so that grab bars and rails can be added to the shower stall. Finally, special floor-mounted shower doors finish off the package and you end up with a very large and safe special needs shower stall!

The only bad news is that usually there is a small lip our curb at the edge of the base to contain the water. If you absolutely need a shower stall with no lip, there are some custom options that a good contractor can do for you, but they will cost more and be more invasive to your bathroom. One way is by making a "custom" shower pan that blends into your bathroom floor on a sloping angle and then the bathroom floor and shower are tiled in as one unit with hanging shower doors. Another way (and you need a very large bathroom for this one) is to build a large U-shaped shower surround with a divider in the middle. This is called a "doorless shower" since the outer walls and dividing wall will contain the water with no door needed. In most cases, these high end special needs shower set ups are not a practical option and, in my opinion, you will get a lot of bang for your buck by just installing the standard shower pan in place of your tub. Good luck, Kathy, and God bless.

Q: Hey, Ed. I'm a contractor and I'm dealing with a crazy problem here in Idaho. I have a client with an attic that develops frost and ice on the inside 2-by-8 supports for the roof. It actually hangs down with icicles and looks like a cave! I added extra insulation and even another roof vent last year, but this year the same thing happened! What else could this be? _ Bill, Idaho

A: Bill, first off, the only way ice can form inside a house is if there is moisture present. So you were on the right track adding the roof vent. However, what you need to do is trace down the source of the moisture to solve this problem. Once you cut off the moisture to the attic and you stop the ice.

A common mistake that I have seen over the years is that many houses have the bathroom fans blowing moist air straight into the attic instead of being piped outside the house with a duct hose. Bathrooms are very moist places in the winter, especially after a hot shower has been run for a while. If all that moisture is being vented directly into the attic that may be your problem.

To solve this problem, simply trace the location of the present bathroom fan ducts and vent them to the outside of the house. Remember, this is just one guess of what could be a few issues going on. Like a good detective, it's up to you to trace out the moisture problem or problems and dry out that attic before the homeowner ends up with a sponge for a ceiling!

(Master Contractor/Plumber Ed Del Grande is known nationally as the author of the book "Ed Del Grande's House Call" and for hosting TV shows on Scripps Networks and HGTVPro.com. For information visit eddelgrande.com or write eddelgrande(at)hgtvpro.com. Always consult local contractors and codes.)

By MAUREEN GILMER
DIY Network
Monday, May 07, 2007

Slide any nursery-grown plant out of its one-gallon pot and cut the rootball into two equal halves. You might be surprised to find that the roots are clustered around the outer edge of a largely untapped soil mass. This is because plant roots go to where there's water. And water applied to container grown plants tends to travel down the seam between the soil and the inner pot edge.

This teaches an important lesson: Most plants are utilizing only a small fraction of their potting soil. If you can encourage them to root into the center of the soil mass, you can increase the plant's vigor without transplanting. The more roots there are, the more resilient your plant will be in heat and drought. It will also grow faster and flower better.

The trick to encouraging more adventurous rooting is to change the way you water. The goal is to evenly wet the entire soil mass, not just the outer edge. This takes time, particularly with a very dry rootball that resists water absorption. But once saturated, you need not water as often.

The simplest way to completely saturate large stationary pots is to turn the garden hose on the barest trickle or drip and place it at the center of the pot, which may be right next to the trunk of a plant. Water slowly applied here will be drawn down by gravity directly into the center of the root ball. After a few hours it will be well saturated.

To water portable pots I use a rectangular plastic box designed for under-bed storage about 6 to 12 inches deep. I put my pots into the box and fill it half way with water. Then I water each pot until it won't drain. That means pressures have equalized holding water around the root ball instead of letting it flow through and out the drain hole.

I let them sit in the water for an hour to be sure the entire soil mass is saturated. Then I remove them to drain outside or in the bathtub. In go the next round of pots and the process repeats itself. Sometimes I mix fertilizer into the water for an extra boost.

You can use the same method with hanging moss baskets that can be tough to water evenly. Use a large plastic garbage can with a smaller one turned upside down inside it. Fill with water and drop your hanging baskets in to sit on the upturned can for an hour to really saturate the sphagnum moss and soil. Then remove the basket and hang to drain before returning to its permanent location.

If you find your pots aren't draining well they may have a very small hole that has become blocked, or the pot may be too flat on the bottom so that when it is placed on concrete or other nonporous surfaces there's barely any gap between the pot bottom and the paving. This can inhibit water flow considerably.

To enhance drainage, you need to get your pots up off the ground _ if just for a quarter inch. There's no need to invest in expensive pot feet. My preference is to use small ceramic tiles or fragments of larger ones. I simply slide them under the edges of the pot where they can't be seen to raise it up. This gap can make a real difference if you are growing drainage-sensitive plants or if you tend to water too much.

Another trick is to be really careful about what kind of potting soil you use. Some brands have way too much woody matter in the mix. You'll see too many of these wood chips in the mix and not enough fine humus. Wood can result in fungus growth and can cause nitrogen deficiency. Select your soil with care. Mix in a two-to-one ratio of coarse sand and perlite to give it improved drainage. Fertilize often to ensure your heavy-feeding annuals are fat and happy.

The most common reasons that container gardens and potted plants do poorly or fail altogether are over-watering or drainage problems. So before you start anew this year, make a change to ensure every inch of potting soil becomes a home for adventurous roots.

(Maureen Gilmer is a horticulturist and host of "Weekend Gardening" on DIY Network. Contact her at her Web site www.moplants.com or visit www.diynetwork.com.)

By CATHIE FILIAN and STEVE PIACENZA
DIY Network
Monday, May 07, 2007

Capture your four-legged friend's image with bold color and modern style. Anybody can be an artist with this easy technique for bringing bright poppy color to a photo a la Andy Warhol.

The results from this project, though easy to achieve, are stunning. All you need to create this one-of-a-kind pooch masterpiece is a photo of your dog, a few canvases and the paint colors of your choice. By using bright colors you can really pay tribute to Warhol. Or this project can easily be adapted to a "vintage look" by using sepia tones and pastel colors.

The instructions are for creating a series of four, but, of course, you could just make one. Have fun, get creative and picture you pooch!

Materials needed:

_ 4 12-by-12 inch stretched, gessoed artist canvases

_ Craft paint in four colors (either bright or muted)

_ Foam paintbrushes

_ Decoupage medium

_ 4 14-by-17 inch color copies of a black-and-white image

_ 10 yards of decorative trim (narrower than the edge of the canvas)

_ Matte medium

_ Picture-hanger piece

_ Small picture-hanging nails

_ Hot glue

_ Scissors

_ Ruler

_ Waxed paper

Steps involved:

1. Choose an image and use photo-editing software to make the picture black and white, adjusting the brightness and contrast until the image is completely black and white with no gray.

2. Print the image, take it to a copy shop and enlarge it to fit the length and width of the canvas (ours was enlarged 140 percent to fit a 12-by-12 canvas). Make four copies.

3. Cut the images to the exact dimensions of the canvases. Apply a liberal, even coat of decoupage medium to the canvas. Apply decoupage to the back (not the front) of the image and carefully apply the image to the canvas (don't start pressing until the image is properly aligned). Smooth out any the air bubbles (you can use a flat-edged object to help flatten bubbles, but be careful not to gouge the paper with the edges) and let dry.

4. Paint the image using acrylic paint that has been mixed with matte medium (one part paint to slightly less than one part matte medium). Allow to dry. Use more than one coat of paint if the first coat looks streaky.

5. When the paint is dry, add embellishments to the artwork. Ribbon or trim can be used to enhance the border of the frame. Attach a picture hanger to the back of the canvas. Repeat for each canvas.

(Emmy nominated Cathie Filian and Steve Piacenza host "Creative Juice" on DIY Network & HGTV. For more information, visit www.diynetwork.com or write to through www.catheandsteve.com.)

Food Network Kitchens
Monday, May 07, 2007

Roasting a fish whole is one of the easiest, most satisfying treatments for many of the most widely available varieties _ branzini, striped bass, dorade, porgy, and snapper.

At the market, pick a fish that looks like it just jumped out of the water _ eyes clear, wet and bulging; skin glistening _ and make sure to have your seller remove the fins and scales for you.

Prepare by cutting a few shallow, parallel incisions on each side of the fish to allow heat to penetrate more easily and keep the fish from curling up. Always brush or rub some oil or melted butter into the skin of the fish. The fat, an efficient conductor of heat, aids in browning, making for crisper, more appetizing skin.

Roast at high heat; the smaller the fish, the higher the heat. Try 400 degrees F for anything between 1 and 2 pounds; 450 degrees for anything smaller.

The general rule is cook 10 minutes per inch of thickness. But you're better off relying on your eyes. When, with a little prompting from a fork, the flesh at its thickest point is just shy of opaque and beginning to flake, whisk the fish out of the oven and onto a platter. It will finish cooking outside the oven.

By JOE LAMP'L
DIY Network
Monday, May 07, 2007

I am in awe of bamboo. It is likely the most versatile and resourceful plant on earth. It's reported that the list of things bamboo is not used for is shorter than the list of things it is used for.

But as virtuous as this plant is, in a home landscape setting, its reputation can be less than righteous.

Imagine asking your neighbor for their permission to plant something in your own yard? Sounds absurd, doesn't it? But, if you're talking bamboo, planting the wrong type could unwittingly be the start of the next Hatfield vs. McCoy feud for as long as they live there!

You might not feel the need to keep your 'green screen' in-bounds but with most bamboos, you've now imposed a maintenance situation on you neighbor they hadn't planned for. You see, bamboo has many, many qualities including the rate at which it grows. Although it's actually a grass, bamboo is the fasting growing plant on earth, bar none! Some species can grow as much as four feet in a mere 24 hours (which leads me to think my lawn is a variety of bamboo sometimes!)

The stalks or 'culms' are fully grown in just a few months. With about 1,000 species growing around the world, the smallest reach a mature height of only about an inch while others top out at around 120 feet.

Now fast growth is one thing when you want to fill in a space or provide some privacy, but when it rapidly encroaches onto your neighbor's property, that's another story. And this is where the potential problem comes into play. Many of the most common species of bamboo are aggressive horizontal spreaders as well.

Bamboo is referred to as one of two types: running or clumping. Knowing the difference can signal the success or failure of your relationship when it comes to planting it.

Running bamboos (momopodial or leptomorph) should be taken at face value! They run. I'm not sure even I can out run them! They are difficult but not impossible to contain, even though their underground 'runners' (technically rhizomes) race below the surface anywhere from two to 18 inches deep. Containment methods include cement, metal and high-density polyethylene plastic rhizome barriers. However, once they have breached the barrier they are a challenge to reel in.

Non-invasive, clumping bamboos (sympodial or pachymorph) have short roots, 18 inches or less, generally forming discreet clumps requiring only a three- to 10-foot circle of space to expand even at maturity; although their dense root structure can impose significant pressure on foundations, walls, fences and the like. They make attractive specimens and will form very dense screens albeit more slowly than their eager cousins.

Clumping bamboos tend to be less cold hardy than the running kind but no matter where you live, there's a species for you. It's found naturally on every continent in the world except Antarctica.

If you'd like to grow bamboo yourself, culturally it prefers rich, moist, well drained, neutral to slightly acidic soils. It is also partial to deep watering in soils with good drainage but can succumb to root problems in water-logged conditions.

In cold weather climates plant bamboo after the danger of frost has passed. In very hot climates plant in late fall or early spring and in mild climates such as that of the west coast bamboos can be planted any time of year.

Bamboo doesn't have to be feared if you know what you're planting before you start. If containment is an issue, take the appropriate precautions and proceed accordingly. Asking your neighbor for their permission? Well, that's up to you.

(Joe Lamp'l, host of Fresh from the Garden on the DIY Network and GardenSMART on PBS, is a Master Gardener and author. For more information visit www.joegardener.com and www.DIYnetwork.com.)

By CANDICE OLSON
HGTV
Monday, May 07, 2007

Aubie eats, breathes and lives film. He has a job at a television movie network, and he just loves to entertain and screen films at home. He recently bought a great house in which he planned to do just that, but after much renovation he found himself stumped on how to rework his new kitchen.

The angular space was so awkward that he didn't even like to use it, other than as a sanctuary for his beloved pet parrot, Lola. Aubie's style is inspired by the Hollywood of the 1920s and the Art Deco period, and he wanted a dramatic and sophisticated kitchen that would mirror his design sensibilities.

So, I grabbed my crew and got set to renovate this small, underutilized kitchen into a show-stopping space that will be perfect for hosting guests _ and housing one glamorous, fine-feathered friend.

I had to make the room bigger so Aubie would have more elbowroom, so, I ripped up the old kitchen and doubled his existing space by blowing out the old exterior wall that led to his backyard. A new hole was cut where the old kitchen window used to be and I installed a wall full of windows and sliding glass doors that lead out to the backyard. This creates a comfortable area for Lola, who can now sun herself by the windows and have a bird's eye view of the backyard.

In addition, I connected the new space to his adjoining dining room for more of an even flow. Once everything was dry walled and painted in a neutral shade, I installed a new floor with radiant heating.

Since Aubie's kitchen was to be Hollywood-inspired, I chose a color scheme of black and white to recall the classic black-and-white movies. I put down sheets of small white hexagonal tiles with black detail tiles on the floor. I also used this color scheme in the cabinetry, where I mixed it up with an abundance of white and black cabinets _ all with beautiful stainless steel, deco-style handles and knobs.

Once the basics were attended to, I got to work on the glam aspect of things. On one side of the kitchen I installed a wall of new stainless steel appliances, including a fridge, freezer and gigantic double oven. I then put up clean, white subway tiles on the backsplash and installed fresh, white countertops.

On the other side of the kitchen I put in a pantry and a beverage center with cabinetry and a mirrored backsplash, where Aubie can serve food and drinks.

In the middle of everything, I set up a gorgeous island with an eight-by-five foot honed marble slab that adds an old-world European flavor. On one side of it I put in a dishwasher, sink, microwave oven and warming drawer. On the other side I installed barstools for Aubie's friends to lounge on. I installed some beautiful large-scale pendant lights over the island.

I then attended to the accents, including some decorative window treatments and a funky slipcover for Lola's cage (to help her _ and Aubie _ sleep on those sunny mornings), and this kitchen was complete.

By expanding, updating and beautifying, the once-cramped kitchen it is now a little bit of deco, a little bit of glam _ and a whole lot of modern. It's time for Aubie and Lola to get ready for the lights, the camera and the action! Now that's divine!

(Interior decorator Candice Olson is host of HGTV's "Divine Design." For more ideas, information and show times visit www.HGTV.com or www.divinedesign.tv. Distributed by scrippsnews.com)

By SHARI HILLER
HGTV
Monday, May 07, 2007

Do you have a bathroom that could use a little pizzazz? A wall mural could certainly jazz it up!

My decorating partner, Matt Fox, and I have noticed that bathrooms tend to be the most overlooked room in the home decorating process. Too often they are considered complete with just a coat of paint and coordinating towels.

Some people, of course, take bathroom decorating one step further and hang wallpaper. Unfortunately, papering a bathroom is not without some problems. Although wallpaper is a great choice for the bath, it can be very pricey. And it can be difficult to paper bathrooms because they are often rather small and cramped. Wallpaper can also be a concern in rooms with high humidity.

Matt and I think wall murals are a great alternative to plain paint or wallpaper in a bathroom. They are inexpensive, long lasting and fairly easy to complete.

The first step in creating a wall mural is the selection of the design. You can find inspiration in a variety of sources. Check out coloring books, greeting cards or magazines for some simple ideas.

You can even use one of your favorite photos as a pattern for a wall mural. Many photo software programs include a feature that allows you to instantly create a line drawing from a photo.

Over the years Matt and I have designed numerous wall murals and have discovered a few tips to help you pick the perfect design.

The most important aspect to creating a great wall mural is to pick a design that is basically the same shape as the area to be painted. If you have a wall area that is 5 feet wide and 8 feet tall, tall, be sure to pick a vertical design. If, however, you have a wider area, you might want to choose a more design.

After you've chosen your design, it's time to prepare the wall surface. Thoroughly wash the wall and allow it to dry completely. Apply a fresh coat of primer. If your design has large areas of a single color (for example, a blue sky), use latex paint instead of primer and you'll save a lot of time and effort.

Once the base coat is completely dry, it's time to transfer your design to the wall. There are several ways to accomplish this task.

If you want a quick and easy way to transfer your design, try using an overhead projector. Simply take your design to a copy center and make a black and white copy large enough so that all details can be easily seen.

Once you are satisfied with your print, copy it onto a piece of transparency film. Using an overhead projector, project your design onto the wall area. It may be necessary to move the projector forward or back several times before you achieve a satisfying placement. Once you're happy with the design size and placement, mark the position of the projector on the floor with masking tape. That way if the projector moves unexpectedly, you will be able to reposition it quickly and easily.

To transfer the design to the wall, use a soft lead pencil and simply trace the design. Before long, you'll have your entire design set and ready to go.

If you don't have access to an overhead projector, you might want to try transferring your design using a grid method. Once you've made and photocopied your design, use a ruler to draw an evenly spaced grid across the surface and then create a proportional grid on your wall surface. Then, using the grid on your design as a guide, transfer the design to your walls. Be sure to use a soft lead pencil in case you have to correct any errors.

Now comes the fun part, painting the design on your wall. Some people use acrylic paints, but Matt and I prefer using wall paint. This used to be a problem when the smallest quantity of paint was a quart, but it's not a problem anymore since sample sizes are available in a multitude of colors.

You'll need a large paintbrush and several smaller artists' brushes to complete your project. Use the large flat brush to apply paint to large areas.

To blend colors or create shadows, paint one color on top of another before the bottom color has a chance to dry. You can use a round artist's brush to create details or outline objects, or you might even try a fine tip permanent marker if you find your hand is a bit shaky.

Once your mural is painted, it's sometimes fun to add some three-dimensional objects to give your design even more depth and character. For our beach design, we placed several lizards in the palm tree to complete our project.

Painting wall murals are so much fun they can be addictive. But that's not a problem since there are so many other areas of your home perfect for murals. There's the entry hall, laundry room and even the garage. Happy painting!

(Matt Fox and Shari Hiller, authors of "Matt and Shari's Great Weekend Projects (DRG Publishers), also appear together frequently on HGTV. For more on Matt Fox & Shari Hiller, visit www.hgtv.com or www.mattandshari.com. Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service.)

Food Network Kitchens
Monday, May 07, 2007

Q: I like to make chicken soup whenever I buy a rotisserie-cooked chicken. After taking most of the meat from the bird, I cover the carcass with water, simmer for a couple of hours (add salt, pepper and poultry seasoning to the water), strain out the solids and then put the broth in the fridge, in a bowl covered with plastic wrap, to let the fat rise and become a solid to skim off the next day. The last few times I've done this the broth takes on a gelatinous texture when refrigerated. When I take the bowl of chicken-broth flavored gelatin out of the fridge, I can skim off the fat and then the gelatin becomes broth again when heated on the stove. What am I doing wrong? Is my fridge too cold, maybe? _ Lesley Eichten, Greensboro, N.C.

A: As a matter of fact, you're not doing anything wrong; you're simply making chicken stock instead of broth.

Though the definition of both is somewhat debatable, the general difference is that stock is made from bones and broth is made from meat. When you simmer bones in liquid, the collagen in the bones and connective tissue turns to gelatin. This provides a richer mouth-feel and thicker texture.

Similarly, when braising an especially cartilaginous and boney meat, such as short ribs or lamb shanks, you'll notice that the broth will be much thicker than, say, a vegetable broth.

For even richer flavor, break up the carcass and saute it in some oil until golden-brown. Add some vegetables (carrots, onion, and celery are classic) and saute those until softened. Then add water and a "bouquet garni" _ that's the classic herb combination used to flavor stock, consisting of black peppercorns, garlic, parsley stems, and bay leaves. Simmer as usual, then chill and use as necessary.

If you're making more than you can use at a time, there are a few convenient ways to store it: either freeze it in ice cube trays or, for larger batches, tuck a resealable plastic bag into a large bowl, then fill the bag with stock and close. Lay the filled bag on a tray and place in the freezer; when it freezes flat, remove the tray and store in the freezer until needed. Stock's generally good for up to three months in the freezer.

(For more information, visit www.foodnetwork.com or write Ask Food Network c/o Viewer Services Culinary Department, Scripps Networks, PO Box 50970, Knoxville, TN 37950.)