By ROB OWEN, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Since the premiere of "Lost" in 2004, networks introduced a surfeit of serialized, large-ensemble, mythological dramas, but this fall there's really just one: ABC's "FlashForward," which begins with an adrenaline-fueled, disaster-movie-worthy pilot (8 p.m. EDT Thursday).

The family comedy gets a welcome and winning update in ABC's "Modern Family" (9 p.m. EDT Wednesday), the fall's best new sitcom.

ABC's "Eastwick," based on the John Updike novel that was also the basis for the 1987 Jack Nicholson-Cher-Susan Sarandon-Michelle Pfeiffer movie, attempts to be a fun, frothy enchanting TV show. But it fails to cast a spell.

The premiere is 10 p.m. EDT Wednesday.

NBC's new nurse drama may prompt viewers to shout its title in exasperation.

There's no question that CBS's "NCIS" became a hit because of the camaraderie of the characters and the relationships that have developed among them. Executive producer Shane Brennan is clearly working the same formula in "NCIS: Los Angeles" (9 p.m. EDT Tuesday), the spin-off series that introduced its characters in a two-part May episode of the original "NCIS."

So often quality TV is defined mostly by writing. But CBS's "The Good Wife" (premiering 10 p.m. EDT Tuesday) is both a well-written legal drama and a terrific showcase for actress Julianna Margulies, who elevates the already-good material with her perceptive, open performance.

There's no question that some "Seinfeld" fans would do anything for an on-air reunion of the show's cast. If it means subscribing to HBO and sitting through the discomfort stirred up by the Larry David character on "Curb Your Enthusiasm," so be it.

When do your old favorites return with new episodes? Find out below:

"The Amazing Race" -- Sept. 27.

"American Dad" -- Sept. 27.

"American Idol" -- Midseason.

"America's Funniest Home Videos" -- Oct. 4.

"America's Most Wanted" -- Already premiered.

"America's Next Top Model" -- Already premiered.

"The Bachelor" -- Midseason.

Judging the fall TV season's best and worst shows is always a dicey proposition. All that a TV critic has to go on at this point is the pilot episode. TV series often rise and fall based on the episodes that follow the pilot.

So consider this list more of a guide to the best and worst pilots that set up series with the most and least potential.

Let's start with the good news: Fall 2009 provides a far better crop of new prime-time programs than viewers got in 2008, which was damaged by last year's writers' strike.

Yes, there are too many remakes and not-great medical dramas, but there are also strong new comedy entries, which have been missing in recent years.